I've been lucky enough to call Listvyanka my home, and every time I visit, I'm reminded of just how special this place is.
Lake Baikal, Listvyanka
Listvyanka is the most popular destination and the closest to Irkutsk city. Getting to the village is a breeze, with plenty of options:
It's just an hour's drive from Irkutsk;Taxis are readily available;Buses and marshrutkas depart from Irkutsk Bus Station;And if you're feeling adventurous, you can take the passenger ferry from Irkutsk River Port;Or the Circum-Baikal Railway - it's a bit of a trek, but the views are stunning.Personally, I've been wanting to take the train for years, but I still haven't mustered the courage for this small adventure.
What's interesting along the way from Irkutsk to Listvyanka?
If you're driving to the village, you can stop by a few interesting spots along the way:
The Wooden Architecture Museum in Taltsy is a must-visit;The Park of Wooden Sculptures, Zazerkalie, is another great spot;The Sibirsky Zoopark in Nikola is home to a wide range of animals;And when you first arrive in Listvyanka, take a left turn off the Baikal Highway onto Akademicheskaya Street, which will lead you to the chairlift up to Kamenny Cher-skogo. 2013 year, Kamenny Cher-skogoIt's a stunning location any time of year. From there, you get a view of the source of the Angara River and the Port of Baikal on the opposite shore. In the winter, this spot has a ski slope.
View from Kamenny Cher-skogo in winter 2014I also want to mention that the Baikal Highway runs along the Angara River, and there are loads of hotels, resorts, and park-hotels along the way. For example, last year we stayed at the park-hotel "Burduguz".
View on the Burydzha Bay, r. Where to grab a bite in Listvyanka
The main event in the village, of course, is Lake Baikal! It's endless, and you can smell the freshness and chill in the air. Just sitting on the shore and listening to the waves is enough to get me going.
But, if you're getting hungry, don't worry – there are cafes and markets everywhere. And, let's be real, the smell of hot-smoked fish is everywhere. For me, Listvyanka is all about that smell. They used to smoke omul, but now it's banned due to industrial fishing, so you'll find 'Baikal Fish' hot-smoked instead.
One of the cafes along Listvyanka's main streetOn our latest trip, which inspired me to write this review, we stopped by 'The Past Century' cafe. You can see the menu prices on the price tag below.
The receipt from 'The Past Century' cafeThe prices in Listvyanka are always crazy, and we've gotten used to it. But, 70 rubles for a slice of lemon and 200 rubles for a glass of water still take my breath away.
We also bought fish at the market. Before, we loved strolling around markets, buying souvenirs, fish, shashlik, and plov. But now we travel with a one-year-old kid and prioritize comfort.
Entertainment in Listvyanka
1. Among the new interesting places in the village, I'd highlight the Ferris wheel that opened a couple of years ago. I didn't ride it because the view from the Chernyshevsky Stone already impressed me, and I'm not sure if the view from the Ferris wheel for 500 rubles per person would surprise me.
The new Ferris wheel 'Eye of Baikal'Prices for entertainment around the Ferris wheel2. A boat ride with a transparent bottom. We didn't take it, but our friends didn't enjoy it. They looked at the bottom of Baikal, but saw trash instead.
The pier of the boat with a transparent bottom3. A regular or speedboat ride. The rides are held in various directions. From short ones along the coast on speedboats to excursion ones with a view of the bays and a visit to Shaman's Rock.
Listvyanka Village4. Nerpinariy. I've been there a couple of times, and I'd go back again. The main thing to note is that it's closed on Mondays.
Nerpinariy, located right in the heart of the village5. Strolling through the fish market. You can buy Baikal fish, both cold and hot-smoked, as well as souvenirs.
Signature Baikal fish, hot-smoked6. The Great Baikal Trail (20 km), which you can walk from Listvyanka to the village of Bolshiye Koty. It's a stunning trail that runs along the shores of Lake Baikal;
7. The Baikal Astrophysical Observatory. I've always been interested in the excursion to the unique solar telescope, but you need to book tickets in advance, and excursions are only held on Sundays.
8. Scuba diving. In Listvyanka, there's a specialized diving center. You can either dive with an instructor or go solo if you have experience.
9. The Baikal Museum and Dendropark. A place where you can learn everything about Lake Baikal, see endemics, including the Baikal Seal, and even take a virtual dive to the bottom of the lake in a submersible.
10. The final stop on the Circumbaikal Railway, Port Baikal, can be reached by ferry, which crosses the source of the Angara River.
11. In the winter, a ski resort opens up with a functioning chairlift, and you can even ice skate on the frozen surface of Lake Baikal, just like in the movie Ice.
Winter 201712. There are also some small kid-friendly attractions and a brand-new interactive museum located to the left of the Ferris wheel.
Interactive Museum
But honestly, the main attraction here is the rocky shoreline of Lake Baikal. We came just for that this time.
Lake Baikal
Traffic Organization
This is, without a doubt, the biggest problem with Listvyanka. On a weekday, you can still drive through without too much hassle and find a parking spot, but on weekends, it's best to avoid coming here by car. The traffic jams can stretch all the way to Irkutsk, and in the village itself, it's a nightmare to navigate two cars past each other – the road turns into a parking lot.
Main street in the village of ListvyankaI'm glad to say things have improved. Now, there are designated parking spots along the entire village road.
You can see on the photo that they've marked out a third lane for parkingThe road to Listvyanka is great. The exit from Irkutsk has a nice interchange that's hard to get lost in. And the best part is, there are no big rigs on the Baikal Highway like there are on federal roads - I'm a bit wary of them, especially on narrow sections.
Our trip
First things first, we stopped to grab a bite to eat. The prices in the village are huge for everything. Sometimes it feels like they don't even accept bills under 500 rubles.
As I mentioned earlier, we stopped by the 'Past Century' cafe, which is right at the beginning of the village, has plenty of parking spots, and even a kids' zone. The food is decent, but we still felt like something was missing in the hot-smoked fish and Saguadae - it was a bit too bland, but overall, it was tasty. We were pleased to see they had a kids' menu.
A Cafe Called 'The Past Century' A Cafe Called 'The Past Century' A Cafe Called 'The Past Century'We drove along the entire village, passed by one of Listvyanka's symbols - the Lighthouse Hotel, parked near the Ferris wheel 'Eye of Baikal', and walked down to the shore.
There's a super atmospheric cafe near the Ferris wheel
Our stroll was ruined by a bunch of aggressive touts who were ready to drag us onto a boat tour. Some promised unforgettable experiences and beautiful views, others used a megaphone to shout to the entire village that the boat was leaving 'ALREADY IN 2 MINUTES', and sometimes they even asked for a free ride. I have no idea how many years it's been since so many touts popped up, but a few years ago we were the ones looking for boat tours on the shore. The village's main street
Lake Baikal, Listvyanka Village I've gotta say, the shoreline isn't what it used to be. I remember the clear rocks underwater, not covered in all these algae. For years, people have been talking about the algae problem near populated areas, but it seems like nothing's been done about it.
The shoreline's got a lot of nasty algae, kind of like jelly We managed to find a real Baikal endemic on the shore. It's not a seal, and unfortunately, it's not alive, but it's still pretty cool. Apparently, it's some kind of Acanthogammarus. Next time, I'll have to check out the Baikal Museum and learn more about the crustaceans that live in the lake.
Left - photo from the internet, right - the crustacean we found on the shore The beach was pretty crowded, even on a Monday. I can only imagine what it's like on weekends. Not many people were swimming, and not everyone was brave enough to take a dip in the icy water, but there were some thrill-seekers out there.
Scenic views of Lake Baikal✅Pros
Fresh air and a chance to breathe in the beauty of nature;Convenience - getting to the village is a breeze;Endless entertainment options for both kids and adults;Expansive views of the Angara River's source;Smooth drive from Irkutsk and back;Plenty of accommodation options;❌ Cons
Steep prices, considering its proximity to Irkutsk;Overwhelming tourist crowds;Aggressive sales pitches for excursions;Narrow and congested roads;Chilly winds blowing in from the lake, even when the water's at a relatively mild +5°C, so don't forget to pack warm clothing;Severely polluted shoreline;
Recommendations
I'd recommend visiting Listvyanka on weekdays, as weekends get ridiculously crowded. It's best to stay overnight, or even for a couple of days, to fully experience what this place has to offer. At first glance, it might seem like there's not much to do, but trust me, you'll need more time than you think. The key to making the most of your trip is to budget accordingly.
Lake Baikal
If you're visiting Baikal for the first time, just sitting on the lake's shore and listening to the sound of the waves is enough to give you a ton of impressions - especially at the start of Listvyanka. I've heard people say that Baikal is a place of power, and I think there's some truth to that. There's just something special about the energy here, even with all the tourists. Lake BaikalIt's beautiful here no matter the time of year. In January or February, you can even see the icebergs.
January 2017, Listvyanka
My thoughtsI wouldn't regret any trip to Listvyanka. It's beautiful at any time of year, and I've got plenty of ideas for excursions - like hiking to Bolshiye Koty, crossing to Port Baikal, and visiting the Astronomical Observatory. If the locals have things to do, then tourists definitely will too.
Streetlights along the main street in the village