Our Elbrus Adventure: Hiking and Natural Wonders in the Caucasus

Mountain fever still gets the best of me whenever I think about our trip to Dombay. It's a year later, and we're back in the Caucasus, this time heading to Elbrus. We scored tickets for the train+bus intermodal route, which was a fantastic way to see the countryside. To book this route, you need to specify the final destination in the ticket search and choose a route with a transfer. In our case, it was Zlatoust-Terskol. The transfer to the bus was in Mineralnye Vody at the railway station square. We rented an apartment in Terskol for 2000 rubles, and it was a great value for money. The next day, the weather was absolutely stunning, and we set off on foot to the Azaou meadow to take the cable car to Elbrus!

I'm glad we didn't have to wait in line to buy our tickets. We just grabbed them and headed to the closed cabin for the ride up. I'm not sure if the price is still current, but we didn't let that stop us. We rode up a few levels to the final stop at Gara Bashi, 3455 meters high! It was a beautiful day, and there was even snow underfoot. And, of course, the majestic Mount Elbrus was fully visible. We felt like we hit the jackpot because sometimes people wait for hours or even days for the clouds to clear. At each station, there are little cafes where you can grab a bite to eat. We stopped at one and had some delicious khinkali with herbal tea. The view of Elbrus was amazing, but unfortunately, my photo didn't load. We ended up walking for a while until our feet froze - we were only wearing lightweight sneakers. I guess you can't win them all, right? You definitely need sunglasses (they sold them on the way up), sunscreen, and a hat. My son stubbornly refused to wear a hat, and as a result, his nose got sunburned. On the way back, we met this adorable little model at one of the stations.

We took a detour off the main road and headed through the small Azaou waterfall, then an eco-trail through the forest along the Baksan River to Terseklo. We returned exhausted but happy, cooked dinner in our apartment using products we'd bought in Minvody. Terseklo has some shops, but the prices are way higher than what we're used to. The next day we headed to the 'Dевичьи косы' waterfall. The road to it starts right from the house where we were staying, Elbrus 3. Along the way, we stopped at the checkpoint, bought tickets, and headed into the Terseklo gorge. There's a fork in the road for the Dевичьи косы waterfall and the Terseklo waterfall. The climb to Dевичьи косы is pretty steep. There's a main road that takes you to the waterfall for a fee, and then there are some trails that cut the distance, but they're super steep. We cut the path a few times.

Walking 5 kilometers in the heat was no easy feat, but it was totally worth it. The views of Mount Cheget, the Donguz-Orun pass, and the Semerka glacier were simply breathtaking. I was starting to think we'd never catch a glimpse of the waterfall, but then, finally, we saw the long-awaited Maiden's Braids! The place was packed, and tour buses kept arriving to drop off more tourists. There was still plenty of space for everyone, though. When you're surrounded by that much natural beauty, it's hard to keep your feet on the ground. The euphoria was palpable!

This moderately challenging hike isn't suitable for young kids. Make sure to bring water, snacks, and enough cash for the entrance fees.

On the fourth day, we headed to Mount Cheget and the Donguz-Orun-köel lake. We hiked through the forest to the Cheget meadow, where there are chairlifts. We rode the chairlifts all the way to the top station. From there, the entire Elbrus range was spread out before us like a map, and to the right, if you zoom in on the photo, you can see the Maiden's Braids waterfall and the path we'd taken the day before.

I was blown away by the vibrant colors of the rhododendrons. From there, we headed back down to the station below and then hit the trail to the lake. The path was smooth, well-maintained, and offered breathtaking views of the Seven Lakes Glacier And then, of course, we stumbled upon the stunning Donguz-Orun-Kuel Lake! A true natural wonder! We made our way down to the water's edge, where the icy water was a refreshing treat. Someone even decided to take a dip! I didn't want to leave, but we had to make our way to the chairlift – we weren't sure how long it would be running. So, be sure to check the schedule ahead of time. If all else fails, you can always hike down, but that'll take a while. The next day, we headed to the Tersekol Waterfall. We'd purchased our tickets

We kept the old trails, and it was a good call. We hiked 6 km through the stunning Tersekul gorge on foot, without any shortcuts. And what a view - we caught a glimpse of the eastern peak of Elbrus!

The trail was gorgeous. The scenery unfolded like a fairytale as we made our way through the gorge!

Just before the waterfall, the trail got a lot tougher - a steep climb with loose gravel. There were no trees or bushes to grab onto, so you need good shoes and to be careful.

The Tersekul waterfall is monumental and awe-inspiring. You can't quite capture its grandeur in a photo.

This was the toughest day of our hike. There were a few times when we thought about turning back, but after a break, we found the energy to keep going. There's no shortcut here, so it's not crowded.

Our last day was a rest day, and we packed up to head home. The weather had been perfect for 6 days, but on our last day, it poured and got cold. It was lovely to warm up in the hot springs at Geduco in Baksan on the way back. Our taxi driver waited for us, and we paid him extra for his trouble. I'd booked the taxi in advance, using the phone number recommended by our host.

We left with nothing but positive vibes. I planned the entire route myself, gathering info from various sources. Give yourself a day per route, so you can enjoy the journey without rushing. I hope the weather treats you as kindly as it did us – in the mountains, that's the real deal.

The budget without train tickets for 7 days: apartment - 14,000 RUB, cafes and restaurants - around 15,000 RUB, food, bus tickets, souvenirs - around 7,000 RUB.