Starozolotovka has been on my radar for its descriptions of being one of the most beautiful and atmospheric places on the Don, a real 'living history' of Cossackdom. I finally decided to spend a whole day there with an excursion.
Laundry Field
Our first stop was the lavender field. The cold, rich purple color of the blooming lavender was a sight to behold. The field wasn't massive, but it was big enough to impress. The neat rows, the buzzing bees, and of course, tourists posing for the perfect shot. The scent was magical and soothing.
I was blown away by how peaceful the atmosphere was, even with people around. It's an amazing spot for photos, and I can only imagine how stunning it would look during sunrise or sunset. Unfortunately, we were there during the day.
Wandering around the Village
We headed down the main street to the beach, passing by the Ethnographic Museum "Quiet Don", guesthouses, and more. That's when it hit me - the whole place felt a bit too perfect. The buildings were all painted in the same colors, the same height, and the flowerbeds were bursting with bright blooms. It was like walking into a movie set.
Everywhere I looked, it was spotless and meticulously planned, like a scene from a historical drama. The paths were lined with greenery and flowers, and the whole atmosphere was just so... tidy.
I was stoked to discover you can rent a whole fancy Cossack village for an immersive experience! Prices in the village, like they warned, are steep - especially for accommodation and food at the local eateries. My snack bag came in handy, though. Fair enough, the lemonade with lavender in a bun was reasonably priced and tasted amazing! Unfortunately, I missed out on the baked goods - they'd all been sold out. I had to settle for ice cream instead.
I stumbled upon a little shop with wooden souvenirs – the items really caught my eye (the craftsmanship, the Cossack symbolism), but the prices were steep.Don's Oasis: The Beach
The beach on the Don River turned out to be pretty underwhelming in terms of amenities. Essentially, there was only a changing cabin and a toilet. No umbrellas, no sunbeds, no infrastructure for comfortable lounging whatsoever.
But what was a major plus – the beach was spotless, the water entry was super gentle, and there were hardly any people around! The water in June was still pretty chilly, though. The view across the way – the forest-covered bank and the reeds – was stunning.
Highlight of the Trip: The Museum 'Quiet Don'
But the real highlight of the day, hands down, was visiting the Open-Air Ethnographic Museum 'Quiet Don'. This is the main reason why many people come here. The museum was created from scratch after the filming of the amazing Sholokhov adaptation by director Uruslaak. And I have to admit – it was done with a ton of love and attention to detail!
The area is huge, well-maintained, and thoughtfully designed. The paths, greenery, flowers, and vineyards all create an atmosphere that feels like a living, breathing history.
The villages are three main ones: Astakhovs (poor, reed roof, clay floor), Melyekhovs (middle class, thatched roof), and Korshunovs (wealthy, iron roof, wooden floors, nice furniture).
Exhibits: Inside, it's a treasure trove! Over 2000 items: furniture, dishes, utensils, tools, a loom, trunks, clothing... Everything's arranged in everyday scenes that really help you imagine what life was like for these Cossacks. The quality and authenticity are seriously impressive.
I have to admit, I was initially skeptical about the authenticity of this museum. The perfectly preserved log cabins and the lack of any signs of wear and tear made me wonder if it was all just a set, a bunch of props. The modern security cameras and fire alarm system didn't help to dispel this notion, making me think it was more like a museum exhibit than an actual historical site. BUT, this feeling in no way diminishes the value of the museum! Its purpose isn't to be an exact replica of the past, but to showcase the essence of Cossack culture in a vibrant, engaging, and accessible way, highlighting its social aspects and beauty. And, in my opinion, it does an amazing job of that!
One of the highlights of our visit was the guided tour. We were lucky to have a female guide who was a direct descendant of a Cossack family. Her hour-long narrative was incredibly engaging, full of life, and packed with genuine knowledge and a clear passion for the subject. It added depth and warmth to our overall experience of the museum. Kudos to her and to the creators of this place!
Steppe Farewell: Bubaks
As we were heading back to the bus, I spotted something incredible - a group of bubaks, or steppe hares, grazing in the distance. They were so cute, stretching their necks, looking around, and quickly disappearing into the grass. Watching these wild creatures in their natural habitat was a surreal and heartwarming experience.
It's a total yes!
My trip to Starozolotovka left me with some amazing, positive impressions. The place is super pretty, well-maintained, and has a great atmosphere. Okay, it's a bit small and toy-like, prices are high, and the beach is minimalist. But...
The lavender field is absolutely stunning.
The overall view of the village is a treat for the eyes, with its cleanliness and harmony.
The 'Quiet Don' museum is a must-visit! It's a top-notch, informative, and super visually engaging project. Especially with a great guide.
Meeting the bai baks was an unexpected bonus.
Future tips:
1. Lavender: Check the blooming period (usually late June to July) for the most photogenic shots.
2. Food/Drinks: Prices in cafes/restaurants are higher than average. Bring water and snacks, but do try the local lemonade or uzvar!
3. The museum: Set aside at least 1.5 to 2 hours for a leisurely visit. I highly recommend taking a guided tour!
4. Footwear: You'll be doing a lot of walking, so comfy shoes are a must.
5. Mindset: Come prepared to immerse yourself in history and take in the beauty.
Starocherkasskaya is definitely one of the most picturesque villages in Russia. I'd love to go back, maybe with an overnight stay in a Cossack lodge to get a deeper feel for the atmosphere. It exceeded my expectations!
Starocherkasskaya - museum under the open sky: Cossack history in every stone