A Faded Touch of Luxury: My Sobering Experience at the Country of the Soul Pension

I'll never forget how we stumbled upon this pension in August 2022. We were planning a last-minute trip to Abkhazia, and most of the world was closed off to Russia. We were desperate to find a place to stay, and this pension was the only one that confirmed our booking just a week before our departure. I didn't read any reviews, and I barely skimmed the description, which mentioned that the room had a conditioner and a kettle. We were thrilled to have found a place, and we headed to Abkhazia, my daughter and I.

The 'Strana Dushi' pension is located in Sukhumi, on the territory of the former PVO sanatorium. The transfer from the airport took around three hours, plus however long it took to pass through customs. We were lucky, and it only took us about 30 minutes. The customs control was a mere formality - you stand in line, go through a scanner, and then head back to your bus. I won't go into details about our emotions when we arrived in Sukhumi - that's a story for another time.

So, the hotel. They dropped us off on the territory of the former sanatorium.

I've seen some places in my life that just broke my heart. This used to be a real gem, a paradise. It had so many buildings, beautiful architecture, paths, gardens, flowers, and the ocean right behind the property. It was stunning, but that was then. Now it's abandoned, neglected, and worthless. It's heartbreaking to see such beauty left to rot. The massive, gorgeous buildings are overgrown with vines, and no one's been taking care of the property. Many of the buildings are literally crumbling. It's hard to believe that something so beautiful could end up in such a state, right on the beach.Out of the entire massive property, only three and a half buildings are still functional. That's right, three and a half, because one of the buildings has only a few rooms occupied, while the others are being slowly consumed by vines. The cafeteria and a few small cafes are still operational, but they're separate from the main property.

There's a separate, multi-story building called 'Breeze' that's essentially a standalone hotel. It's listed as 'Breeze Building' in the booking systems, and it's part of the former PVO sanatorium. There's also the 'General's Building'.

The complex where I stayed has multiple buildings, and it's possible that each one belongs to a different owner now. Looking at the different renovations and room numbers on our building, it seemed like even the different floors of our building might belong to different people or organizations. If that's the case, it's really sad to see such a massive complex broken up into pieces.I learned the hard way that when booking the 'Country of the Soul' pension, you need to pay close attention to the floor you're staying on. They're all vastly different. The renovations, room numbers, and amenities in each room are night and day. The exterior of our building looks pretty rough, like it's been around since the Soviet era. It's a bit like stepping back in time when you see the whole complex.

Walking into the lobby on the first floor, I was hit with a wave of nostalgia - it felt like stepping back in time to the Soviet era. As I made my way up the floors, things started to look a bit more modern - but it wasn't until I reached the 14th floor that I was blown away by the sleek, high-end renovation.14th-floor hall.14th-floor corridor.14th floor.14th-floor hall.14th floorWe stayed on the 8th floor. It's a pretty average option. Not super pretty, but not super scary either, like the 4th, 5th, 6th, or 7th floors. The corridor is modest, but clean. Our 8th-floor corridor.8th-floor hall.In the room, everything's old, but clean. The saddest view is of the bathroom and balcony – they're pretty rough around the edges.One thing that's stuck with me from my stay is the consistency of the amenities.

The hot water, cold water - no issues whatsoever. No mold, no mildew. For a budget hotel in Abkhazia, it's a decent offering. The room came equipped with a conditioner, electric kettle, and a fridge. The bed was a double, with an extra bed for a kid. The balcony had a table, chair, clothes dryer, and a view that took my breath away! Everything was a bit old, but what really surprised me was the crisp, high-quality bed linen - the kind you'd find in a luxury hotel. And the room was spotless. I took a stroll around the other floors, and let's just say some of them were a bit scary.

The all-inclusive package meant I didn't have to worry about food, but the options were a bit limited. There are plenty of cafes around the resort where you can grab a bite to eat, and they're not too pricey, but the food's not exactly gourmet. There are two dining halls - one's a separate building, and the other's near the General's Corps. I think the one near the General's Corps is called the General's Hall, and it's super affordable, but the food's pretty bad. General's HallIt's not exactly a feast for the taste buds, but it's edible. There's also a dining hall on the first floor of the Breeze building, which is a bit pricier, but still pretty affordable. And then there's the cafe on the first floor of our building, but the prices were a bit higher, and the quality wasn't much better. We ended up eating at the Breeze building's dining hall, which was around 200 rubles for a decent meal, assuming you don't count drinks.The sea is literally right outside our door - it's just 50 meters from the building.

Beach with pebbles. The water was cool and murky. I think it's because of the river that flows into the sea right nearby. On the second day of our stay, my kid caught a stomach bug. Luckily, we had some medication on hand. The vomiting lasted just one night, and by morning, they were back to normal. Locals told us that most of the city's wastewater flows into the rivers, which then flow into the sea. (Sorry for the graphic description) After July, when the water heats up above 23 degrees, it's like everything gets 'flushed out'. We tried to stay away from the rivers after that. There are plenty of them, even if they're not big, there are tiny streams flowing into the sea. For the rest of our stay, we tried to swim further away.We took a day trip to Mokko Beach, even walking there on foot. It's a sandy beach located on the outskirts of the city, right opposite the former dacha of Stalin. Locals told us that the water is incredibly clean due to the lack of sewage. And let me tell you, the water was crystal-clear.

Mokko Beach.

Mokko Beach.The location of the pension is pretty decent. It's got its own fenced-off huge territory, even if it's a bit downbeat due to the abandonment. But it's still beautiful. There are some really well-maintained sections of the territory. The territory of the former sanatoriumIt's a big park where you can take a stroll. I loved strolling along the seafront path.Множество лавочек. The central promenade was a highlight of my stay. Центральная аллея. The central promenade was buzzing with people in the evenings.When I was there, I noticed that this place used to have a cinema, but it's now abandoned and run down. The abandoned cinema on the sanatorium grounds was a fascinating sight.My partner and I spent a lot of time exploring the grounds, admiring these abandoned buildings, and even some of the structures were left open. It's easy to slip inside and take a closer look at the faded luxury. It's like stepping back in time to the Soviet era - I can almost imagine the military elite lounging in these luxurious barracks, enjoying the good life. The former indoor pool is a sight to behold. This abandoned building is a real treat. If you make your way to the central alley and stroll along to the central exit, you can pop out onto the street, where there are loads of shops, cafes, and even stores selling household goods and groceries, plus pharmacies. If you exit from our building's side, it's a breeze to get to the Central Waterfront in Sukhumi. It's stunning - there's plenty to see and do.There's a modern playground right next to the cafe on the former sanatorium grounds.

Playground. It's super convenient - parents can chill in the cafe while the kids play. So, the location is definitely a plus. There aren't huge crowds, but it's still within walking distance to the Central Embankment. Plus, there's a park where you can take a stroll in the evening and grab a coffee at the cafe.I've never been to Abkhazia before, and my experience was mixed. The natural scenery is stunning, but there's so much abandoned beauty that's just heartbreaking. And then there are the war-damaged houses in Sukhumi - I'll write a separate review about that city. Of course, I'd recommend visiting this country - I'd even come back myself. Maybe even stay at this hotel again. This hotel is definitely for laid-back tourists. If you're used to staying at nice hotels with great service, this isn't for you. But if you're willing to take a chance, just be sure to check the floor you're staying on - otherwise, you might be in for a shock. Some people write super-negative reviews about this place, but I think they just stayed on the wrong floor - there are definitely better ones.