My husband and I arrived in Rybinsk on September 19, 2024, at 12 pm in our personal car. We were planning to take a river cruise on the Volga with lockage, so we parked near the main pier of the city, right next to the burlyak monument.
The pier is made of wooden planks:
The monument is a humble replica from 1977:
Burlyak Monument
You see these kinds of sculptures quite often in Rybinsk.
On a busy autumn weekday, there were more metal people on the embankment than living pedestrians:
Ostap Bender Monument
Lew Oshanin Monument
And there were even more streetlights with ridiculously bright shades.
Thanks to the great weather, the photos turned out bright and colorful, but trust me, these streetlights are a real eye-sore with their abundance of shades:
Volga Embankment
I was struck by how dominant the architectural design is, even from the boat.
When I saw a similar design excess on my favorite Arbat, Bulat Oкуджава said:
Arbat has been over-embellished.
I'd say the same about Rыбинск's embankment.
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So, to cut to the chase.
Our first impression of the city was pretty underwhelming.
- Well, at least we're taking a three-hour boat tour, - we thought, and we rushed to the Moscow-7
After the boat tour, we headed to check-in at our hotel:
Guest House On Vvedenskaya 3*
Guest House On Vvedenskaya 3*
The interior was a bit bland, but the location and the exterior of the old mansion more than made up for the subpar plumbing.
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We set off on our stroll in a pleasant tourist mood.
We had two hours to spare before visiting the restaurant.
But that was more than enough time to explore the city center and check out the local museum.
RYBINSK'S OLD-TIMERS. NOTABLE SIGNAGE
The main thing that struck me about Rybinsk is the signage.
Every tourist review I've read mentions it first.
And I'm no exception.
The idea was proposed by musician Mitya Kuznetsov to the city authorities back in 2016.
It was a stroke of genius – at the time, Russia was just starting to tap into its domestic tourism market, which would become a major trend during the pandemic and beyond.
Rybinsk was ahead of the curve, recognizing the need to find its unique selling points and use its history to promote itself to tourists, and thus attract much-needed revenue to the local economy.
Mitya Kuznetsov, aka Dmitry Stanislavovich Kuznetsov
Born and raised in Rybinsk, Yaroslavl Oblast, Mitya is a folk musician and multi-instrumentalist who's performed in Russia and abroad.
He's also a regular at European international music festivals.
It's all thanks to the vision of this talented local musician that the city's center now boasts retro-style signage on its buildings.
It's a unique and charming touch, especially when you see it on popular store fronts.
Magnet Zdravcity VkusVill
I love how these old streets are free from billboards and advertisements.
It's a different story in areas farther from the historic center, where you'll see the usual commercial signage.
But here's the thing:
IN THE HISTORIC CENTER OF RYBINSK, YOU'LL ONLY FIND LOW-RISE BUILDINGS.
You won't see any building taller than 3 stories in the center.
And not a single structure in modern style (glass and concrete).
It's clear that the city is committed to a single architectural concept.
The old merchant houses are being restored, and new buildings in the same style are being constructed in place of those that have been lost.
From a distance, it's often hard to tell whether you're looking at a historic landmark or a replica.
WORTH NOTING ABOUT THE CITY
Another thing that stood out to us was the large size of the historic district.
We've been to many Russian cities, and their historic centers are significantly smaller in terms of area.
It's usually just a few blocks around the Kremlin or a similar attraction, and then you're surrounded by Soviet-era apartments and modern high-rises.
There's no Kremlin or anything like it in Rybinsk.
The most iconic buildings in the center are the New Bread Exchange, built in 1912:
New Bread Exchange, 1912
and the Spaso-Preobrazhensky Cathedral, built in 1838:
Spaso-Preobrazhensky Cathedral, 1838
The central square is nearby, with a Lenin monument wearing a ushanka hat:
Lenin Monument
It's pretty, but not exactly historic.
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We strolled through the streets without a rush.
You can't get lost, the Volga River is your main landmark.
The city's grid system is strictly rectangular.
There are plenty of shops in the center.
The evening dress salons caught my eye.
I stumbled upon two with similar collections:
Fashion Store, RybinskFashion Store, RybinskFashion Store, Rybinsk
I was really impressed by the western boot store:
Shoe Store, Rybinsk
I know that not far from here is the town of Myshkin, which is famous for its felt boots.
But here, it's all about cowboy boots
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As we were strolling, we ended up on the Cheremukha River embankment.
It's been beautifully renovated in a modern style, and there's an amazing kids' playground.
The toilets are a work of art:
The entrance fee is 25 rubles, paid by card.
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MUZEY MOLGOI
Just a stone's throw away is a tiny church that houses the Museum of the Mologa Region.
Mologa - the Lost City
I've always been fascinated by the story of Mologa, a city that was flooded to create the Rybinsk Reservoir.
Locals call it the 'Atlantis of Russia.'
But don't get your scuba gear ready - there's nothing to see underwater!
The Rybinsk Reservoir is a vital waterway, and it's amazing how much effort went into clearing the area before flooding.
Every last scrap of debris was removed, leaving nothing but a pristine lake bed.
We learned all about it at the local museum.
Let's take a look - I've got our tickets right here, 200 rubles for the two of us:
We arrived at the museum at 6:08 PM, and it's open until 8 PM.
But we managed to explore the whole thing in just 16 minutes - it's a tiny place!
There are two small rooms on the first floor and two more on the second.
The map was the most interesting part for me:
Museum of Mologa Region
Exhibits like this one can be found all over the city:
Museum of the Mologa Region.
I've got similar ones at home:
Museum of the Mologa Region.
We left the museum at 6:24 PM.
The sky was treating us to some amazing colors:
There's still half an hour to the restaurant.
Let's head to Kalancha. It's right by the Chernyakhovskoy Embankment.
Kalancha Rybinsk
Kalancha Rybinsk, a fire tower built in 1912, is one of the tallest in Russia, standing at 48 meters tall.
Kalancha definitely deserves some attention, so we took a few photos of it:
Rybinsk Fire Tower
Inside the tourist area, there's no passage.
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As the sun sets, it's time for us to grab a bite to eat.
We'll do it at the number one restaurant in Rybinsk, Supberry.
Supberry
Take care of your health, dear readers!
Supberri, Rybinsk
And now, the most interesting part!
OLD HOMES OF RYBINSK
After dinner, we decided to take a stroll through the sleepy town.
There's no one around.
We headed out to Chkalov Street, where poet Lev Oshaniin used to live as a kid and wrote timeless lines:
And I'm 17...
This is his house:
Lev Oshaniin's House
I wish he could see how the town's changed, with workers digging up the street where he grew up.
They're replacing the heating pipes.
September 20, 2024
It's hard not to feel for the locals, with autumn coming to an end and winter just around the corner.
The road is closed, but we're able to walk and take in the sights.
And the houses! They're all so different!
Each one has its own unique character:
People actually live in these houses.
I was reminded of a song by another artist:
I'm used to wandering alone
And looking into other people's windows
In the chaos of silent paintings
Reflecting in wet glass.
I wish I could know,
What's waiting for you and what's troubling
Your dreams, but once again
The night comes,
And the day is wasted.
But our day wasn't wasted.
We're full of impressions.
It was really nice to walk back to our hotel.
The temple is beautifully lit up:
Rybinks is amazing at night!
Even More Old Houses
On the morning, we decided to take a stroll and check out some houses.
We arrived a bit closer to the center, parked on a quiet street, and set off.
There are houses made of stone:
I've got some wood furniture at home that's seen better days.
Here are some of the restored pieces:
And some that aren't looking so great:
But then there are some that are restored to perfection:
And some that are truly one-of-a-kind:
But the most interesting thing to me is the House of Semyon Gordyev (Gordyev's Terem, Rybinsk House of Artists
This is a monument to Russian wooden architecture of the early 20th century.
It's located not far from the train station and looks really exotic:
House of Semyon Gordyev (Gordyev's Terem, Rybinsk House of Artists
As it turns out, they rebuilt it using blocks.
And then finished it with wood.
They restored it to the exact photo, just like it was.
Right across from it is the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, 1910:
Church of the Sacred Heart of JesusHello everyone, that's me:
Something made me want to start typing on the keys.
Sorry, I'm off.
Go to Rybinsk yourself and take a closer look, I highly recommend it!
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Additional notes.
Recently, the series 'Overheard in Rybinsk' dropped, and my husband and I binge-watched the whole thing.
We recognized all the locations featured in the show, and it was crazy to see our own guest house in episode five.
Overheard in Rybinsk