I recently got back from Zelenogradsk in the Kaliningrad Oblast, and I'm stoked to share my impressions of this amazing town.
Zelenogradsk is a beach resort on the Baltic Sea coast, 35 km from Kaliningrad. Until 1946, the town belonged to Prussia and was called Kranz.
As early as the early 19th century, the Germans realized that the sea air and water were good for their health. So, they started developing Kranz as a resort: they built hotels and health spas, opened cafes and restaurants. In 1844, the town was granted the title of royal resort.
My first time there was in November, and it was chilly and rainy. But this year, I was there in September, and luck was on my side – not a single overcast day, and the temperature was a lovely +26 degrees Celsius, while the Baltic Sea water was only +18 degrees Celsius.
On my first day, I just wandered around the town and enjoyed the German architecture. The tiny, neat houses, souvenir shops, local fish restaurants, and spotless streets all won me over. Even with all the tourists, I didn't find it overwhelming.
I've got to say, I'm really fond of these little cabins. After being cooped up in Moscow's concrete jungle, it's a breath of fresh air to be here. The photos don't do it justice - the scenery is even more stunning in person.
I booked an apartment close to the pedestrian street, and it was a great choice. The town is small and cozy, so everything – the train station, shops, and promenade – seems to be just a short walk away. You can easily explore the whole town on foot.
There are plenty of shops where you can buy amber jewelry and amber cosmetics. I'd recommend getting an amber hair mask and a dry amber shampoo – they work wonders for my hair. The creams are pretty good too.
I strolled down the pedestrian street in Zelenogradsk and discovered some amazing spots to grab a bite and pick up souvenirs. The marzipan here is pricier than what you'd find in regular stores, but the selection is huge. I fell in love with this little caramel shop - they offer sugar-free candies in various flavors, and I highly recommend checking it out.
Lithuanian pastries are a must-try, and the Shakotis cake is a personal favorite of mine.
The handmade plush toys are adorable, but be prepared for the hefty price tag.
Zelenogradsk's krendels are a game-changer - they're a must-try, especially with the options of hazelnut, white chocolate, cheese, and cinnamon. Don't be put off by the long queue; it's worth the wait. I highly recommend trying their glintwein or obeliekhovy chai as well.
There's also a bakery where you can grab some amazing pastries and bread.
And I've also discovered a favorite cafe - РЫБА АГОНЬ! They do an amazing job with their fish dishes. The prices are pretty reasonable, and the portions are generous. That's why you'll often find a wait for a free table during lunch.
Baltic herring grilled to perfection. Often served with caviar. It's finger-licking good.
Mackerel.
I've had some incredible meals since I got this thing, but the one that really stands out is the halibut - it's like nothing I've ever tasted before.
Another standout dish was the pike soup - it was so flavorful and refreshing.
But what really gets me is the cats - they're everywhere in Zelenogradsk. I mean, I've seen them lounging on every street corner, and there are even automated feeders where you can buy them food.
Even the manholes have cat pictures on them - it's just the best.
Walking around the city early in the morning is really lovely when everyone's still asleep. And the evening view of Zelenogradsk with its lighting is just as beautiful.
It's great to stroll along the promenade, visit the pier, and take in the stunning views of the Baltic Sea. You can even walk down to the water's edge and take a dip, if you're not put off by the chilly water. Even in the summer, the temperature rarely tops 20°C. I swam there in September, but this year's weather has been particularly lovely.
Sunset over the Baltic Sea
I spent some time capturing some relaxing wave sounds for my video content.
View from the pier
Those local seagulls are pretty bold. I mean, they can just chill in a corner and wait for scraps.
Fishermen on the pier early in the morning. If you're into fishing, you can even rent a rod.
By evening, the promenade is packed with people. Sometimes there are street performers, and folks enjoy the Baltic coastline's beauty or grab a seat at a cafe right across from the sea. I've got a soft spot for a super tasty ice cream shop on the promenade, by the way.
They've got a range of flavors to choose from, including salmon ice cream - yeah, you read that right!
Salmon ice cream - it sounds crazy, but trust me, it's a game-changer.
When I'm in the market for affordable marzipans – both local and German – I head straight to the local market. It's conveniently located in the city center, just a stone's throw away from the train station. You can score fresh seafood, souvenirs, fruits, veggies, and local baked goods all in one place.
I highly recommend taking a ride on the Ferris wheel, 'Eye of the Baltic'. The views of the city, promenade, and the sea from the cabin are simply breathtaking.
The 'Eye of the Baltic' Ferris wheel in Zelenogradsk is a relatively new attraction that opened in summer 2021. Standing at an impressive 50 meters tall, it's situated right on the beach, near the 'Rosy Winds' square where the city hosts its biggest festivals and events.
All cabins are of the enclosed type, equipped with comfortable seating and climate control. The panoramic windows, which are 5mm thick, offer an unobstructed view of the surroundings. One full rotation takes around 10-12 minutes.
These photos were taken in November last year.
Looking out into the distance, you get a stunning view of the Curonian Spit. It's a 20- to 30-minute walk to get there.
The city also has a great urban park that's perfect for escaping the heat on hot summer days. The local authorities have done a great job of setting it up, so you'll find everything you need: playgrounds for kids, ponds, greenery, and accessible paths for people with disabilities.
Interestingly, the original City Park in Kranz was only 800 meters long. But back in 1844, thanks to a grant from King Frederick William IV of Prussia, the park was renovated and renamed Plantage.
Visiting the graves of those who fought in World War II is a sobering experience. I was struck by the Eternal Flame burning at the memorial, and the people who come to pay their respects by laying flowers. Over 630 soldiers are buried here, and it's a poignant reminder of the sacrifices they made.
There are plenty of attractions and museums to explore in the area. I highly recommend checking out the cat museum, 'Muraarium', which is located in a historic water tower. The views from the top are stunning, and you can see the city in all its glory.
So if you're planning a trip to Kaliningrad...</