Verona in February is a Treat, but Don't Let Travel Costs Ruin the Fun!

Hello everyone!

I'm a huge fan of traveling and try to do it as often as possible.

I love taking care of everything myself - booking flights, arranging visas, choosing hotels, and planning routes.

My trip was from February 22nd to 26th, 2020.

I randomly chose Verona, as I really wanted to visit Italy in the winter, since it's usually warm and sunny there. S7 had a sale on flights to various destinations, so we ended up booking a direct flight without checked baggage from Moscow to Verona and back for 17,500 rubles for two people.

We booked a hotel outside the city center, as Verona is a pretty compact city. Our hotel was about a 20-minute walk from the historic center. We paid 16,500 rubles for a 4-star hotel for four nights with a buffet breakfast, plus 28 euros for the city tax, which we paid when we checked out.

Our hotel's facade:

Day 1: Arrival. How to get from the airport to the city and what to use.

We arrived in Verona around 9 PM.

There were only two customs officers at passport control, but we still got through pretty quickly.

Getting to Verona city from the airport is a breeze with bus 199. It takes just 15 minutes and costs a reasonable 6 euros. The bus runs on schedule, as you can see from the photo below. To buy your ticket, head to the last gate, where you'll find an automated ticket machine. After passing through passport control, you'll arrive in the big baggage claim area. From there, follow the signs to the left and you'll spot the exit. Once you're in the second area, you'll see two ticket machines – an older one and a newer one. The new machine looks like this:

The photo was taken at the bus stop for route 199 in Piazzale Nuova:

I had some trouble getting my ticket with my bank card – the machines wouldn't accept it, even after trying three different cards in both machines. Make sure to have some small change on you to buy your ticket. The old machine didn't give me change when I tried to pay with a 10-euro note, and it ended up swallowing the money (but it all worked out in the end – it gave me an information ticket that I had to exchange at the ATV office, and they returned my money). You can exchange your money for coins at the café in the same area.

Once you've got your ticket, head out to the exit and walk right for about 5-7 metres to the bus stop. The electronic display shows the arrival time of the next bus, which was just a few minutes late. The bus itself is very comfortable, and the roads in Italy are amazing! The final stop is Verona Porta Nuova, and there's only one stop along the route, so you can't go wrong. Porta Nuova is the city's main train and bus station, where all the local buses stop.

We hopped on another bus from Porta Nuova and headed to our hotel.

IMPORTANT!!! - the bus ticket from the airport to the city is valid for 75 minutes and can be used to transfer to a city bus line 199 afterwards. You need to validate the ticket on the bus itself, and the drivers will show you how to do it. If you don't, you'll risk getting fined by the controllers.

The last shuttle from the airport departs at 23:10.

Here's the current schedule for bus 199 at the time of our trip:

Day 2: Exploring the city, sightseeing, cafes, walks, evening Verona, Verona Card.

Verona Arena, Piazza Bra, Juliet's Balcony and House, Church of Saint Anastasia, Scaliger Tombs, Piazza delle Erbe, Lamberti Tower, Gallery of Modern Art.

Verona Card.Before visiting Verona, I'd read about the city's excellent tourist card - Verona Card, which allows visitors to enter museums and churches without paying, and use the city buses (within city limits) for free.

Verona Card is available for either 24 or 48 hours. The 24-hour pass costs 20 euros per person, while the 48-hour pass costs 25 euros. We bought two 48-hour cards for 50 euros, and that was a significant saving!

You can buy the cards at tobacco shops in the city center, but we purchased ours at the tourist information office near Piazza Bra, where we also got a colorful map of the city.

Activating the Verona Card is a breeze - it starts working as soon as you step into your first museum or public transport. Every time you enter a church, museum, or bus, the Verona Card needs to be shown or presented.

Piazza Bra and Arena di Verona.

This square is the largest in town, and the heart of the city's public life.

The Arena di Verona is located here - it's the largest ancient theater, and performances are still held here today! By the way, the Arena is even older than the Roman Colosseum.

Admission to the Arena costs 10 euros per ticket, but with the Verona Card, it's free.

Piazza Bra and Arena:

And Verona at night is just stunning

We spent about 50 minutes strolling around the Arena's circular paths and climbing up to the top. Downstairs, you can find a free public restroom.

Looking out from the top steps of the Arena, you get these amazing views of Piazza Bra and all the little houses and cafes around it.

Juliet's House and Balcony.

I was blown away by the history of this place - it's a 13th-century house! It's super popular with tourists, and the courtyard was packed with people.

And then there's the famous balcony, which you can even take a photo on if you visit the House of Juliet. The house itself is pretty compact, with just a few exhibits, but it's still really interesting to look around.

The entrance is 6 euros per person, but if you have a Verona Card, it's free.

We spent about 30 minutes at Juliet's House taking photos on the balcony.

But strolling past her house in the evening, we noticed there were hardly any people in the courtyard, so we took a closer look again.

Church of Saint Anastasia (Santa Anastasia).

The largest of the city's churches in Verona, in the Gothic style.

The church isn't particularly impressive from the outside, but the inside is just stunning.

Entrance is 3 euros, free with the Verona Card, plus an audio guide.

When you enter, you\'re given an audio guide (available in Russian) and an informational booklet that serves as a guide.

The church is packed with historical statues, columns, frescoes, and bas-reliefs. What really stands out is the half-mosaic from the 14th century and the hunchbacks holding up the columns. Apparently, if you touch the hunchback, it\'s supposed to bring you good luck.

Scagliari Arches.We walk around, take in the sights, and move on.

Piazza delle Erbe.Another big square in the city, the "herb square". It\'s got a few cafes and shops around it. The square features an old fountain of Verona\'s Madonna, built in the 14th century during the Scagliari era.

Walking around the square on weekdays, you can find a market where you can buy souvenirs, leather goods, fruits and vegetables, and grab a bite to eat.

The Lamberti Tower, the Modern Art Gallery. You can walk from Piazza delle Erbe to the Modern Art Gallery and the Lamberti Tower viewing platform. The gallery is small, but unfortunately, the viewing platform was closed on Sundays. We spent about 30 minutes looking at the gallery.

Admission is 8 euros, or free with the Verona Card.

We spent the day wandering through Verona's central streets, shopping at local stores – everything's within walking distance in the historic center.

Just a taste of Verona...

A glimpse of the Romeo house

Day 3: Exploring the city, Giusti Gardens, Appartamento 900, Roman Theatre, Archaeological Museum, St. Peter's Castle viewpoint, Ponte Pietra.

On this day, we decided to take a leisurely stroll from the city center to Ponte Pietra, hitting up most of the spots along the way (listed in the subheading).

Giusti Gardens.This place left a huge impression on me. Even in February, the gardens are lush, the birds are singing, and the views are stunning! You can sit on the benches at the top and take in the panorama of Verona. The gardens feature various statues, fishponds with fish and turtles, and even a maze. It's truly breathtaking!

We spent about 2 hours exploring the gardens.

Full ticket price is 10 euros, and with the Verona Card, it's 7 euros. The ticket includes a visit to Appartamento 900.

Approaching the Gardens

Entrance

The Justi Gardens

The Labyrinth

Heading Upwards

Appartamento 900.What really caught my eye was the house-museum right at the entrance/exit of the Giusti Gardens.

I was blown away by how deserted the museum was, even the staff seemed to be nowhere to be found. We had 7 massive halls to explore, each one telling a piece of Gusti's family story and life. The atmosphere was spellbinding and mysterious.

The entrance fee was actually included in the ticket from Sadowski's Garden.

Roman Theatre.It's an ancient structure that hosts musical festivals during the summer.

The ticket to the Roman Theatre and Archaeological Museum is a single 6 euro fee, and if you have the Verona Card, it's free.

Archaeological Museum.The Archaeological Museum is home to some incredible mosaics and glassware from the Roman era, as well as ancient sculptures, bronze figurines, and ceramics.

Viewpoint in front of St. Peter's lock.Getting to the viewpoint is a bit of a hike, but the views are totally worth it. You'll find the staircase to the left of the Archaeological Museum (you can see us climbing the stairs in the photo above, right by the museum). The staircase is easy to miss, and the climb can be a bit of a slog, especially in the heat. But trust me, the panoramic views are stunning! If you want to take it easy, you can catch the funicular down for just 1 euro - it's right at the bottom after you've descended. You can also take the funicular up to the viewpoint.

Ponte Pietra Bridge.After you've taken the funicular down, you'll find yourself right at the famous Ponte Pietra Bridge. This ancient arch bridge has been preserved almost perfectly and the views from it are simply breathtaking! Plus, you can see the River Adige churning along below.

The views from the bridge

We wrapped up our 'eastern loop' of Verona, and headed over the bridge into the city center. More shopping and wandering the streets.

More of Verona on our second day

Porta Borghetto

Day 4: Casual strolls, souvenir shopping, and Castelvecchio

This day was all about taking it easy and wandering the lesser-known streets of Verona. We stumbled upon tiny churches, enjoyed the city's laid-back vibe, and picked up some souvenirs, gifts, and local cheeses and cured meats.

I was pretty surprised by how the vending machine store looks - it's basically a whole room full of them.

Most of the machines look like this.

Scaliger Bridge and Castelvecchio Castle. Scaliger Bridge connects the left part of the city to Castelvecchio Castle. You can walk along it, take a stroll, or just take some photos.

Day 5: Departure

We took the bus number 199 to get to the airport, just like we did on the way to Verona. The bus stop is located in Porta Nuova, and right next to it, there's an automatic ticket machine, but you can also buy tickets at the nearby kiosk. The bus runs every 15-20 minutes, and the journey takes about 15 minutes.

All the bus schedule photos and the automatic ticket machine photos are at the beginning of this review.

What ruined our vacation and plans in Verona?

I had planned to stay in Verona for two full days, then take a domestic train to Lake Garda and spend the last three days exploring the area, walking around the lake in the city of Desenzano del Garda.

Unfortunately, the COVID-19 outbreak threw a wrench into our plans.

On the second day in the city, almost all tourist attractions, churches, and even some cafes were closed for visitors. By the third day, all museums were shut down. There wasn't any panic in the city, though – people wore medical masks as a reminder of the virus and its spread. Luckily, there were no cases in our city.

When we arrived in Verona on February 22nd, Italian medics took our temperature upon arrival, and then we proceeded to passport control.

How much time do you need in the city?

Verona is a compact city, and with a lot of enthusiasm, you can see the main sights in a day, but to truly enjoy the city, take your time, and stroll around – I needed two full days to appreciate it, and that's when I could finally enjoy an Aperol Spritz on Piazza Bra.

How much money did we spend on the trip? The final tally.

Our trip and main expenses calculation for two adult tourists:

Hotel for four days, four-star with breakfast = 18,500 rubles (including city tax)

Round-trip flight to and from Verona, direct flight for two without luggage = 17,500 rubles

Italian visa = 9,000 rubles

Bus from the airport to Verona and back = 1,680 rubles (24 euros at 70 rubles per euro)

Verona Card for two people for 48 hours = 3,500 rubles

Total: 50,180 rubles.

I didn't include cafe checks, souvenirs, gifts, and shopping expenses in the calculation, as they vary greatly depending on individual spending habits and needs.

Cutting costs with the Verona Card?

Even though we could only fully explore the museums for one day, the Verona Card saved us 30 euros. We used it as a public transport pass and took buses to and from our hotel and around the city.

Shopping in Verona.

Unfortunately, Verona isn't exactly known for its outlet shopping.

The city is small, and all the shopping streets with high-end boutiques and stores are concentrated in one area. You can find great deals and take advantage of tax-free shopping on brands like Michael Kors, Furla, LV, Max Mara, Intimissimi, Nike, and New Balance, among others.

As for local Italian stores, I'd recommend checking out O Bag on Piazza delle Erbe, and Cuoieria Fiorentina, which is just nearby. We picked up a great leather belt for 38 euros, and you can find bags and leather accessories there too. They even adjusted the belt to fit me perfectly on the spot – the Italian service is a world away from what we're used to in Russia.

On Piazza delle Erbe, you can find a small market in the center of the square on weekdays, selling leather wallets, belts, and accessories.

Where to grab a quick bite between sightseeing?

In the historic center of Verona, you'll find a ton of cafes, restaurants, trattorias, and pizzerias to suit every taste and budget. Before entering each place, you can check out the menu and prices. I've got a tip for Russian tourists, though - avoid places with menus written in Russian, as the prices are always inflated.

If you're short on time and want to grab a delicious bite, I highly recommend 'Bigoi Verona' at Largo Gonella 1 Portoni Borsari, 37121 Verona. For 6-8 euros, you can get a generous serving of pasta to take away or enjoy on their outdoor seating area. We even got our pasta split into two servings without extra charge and topped with parmesan cheese - it's seriously great street food! In terms of quality and flavor, it's on par with the cafes.

If you're between tours or need a quick snack, this place is a no-brainer.

Where and how to find Wi-Fi in the city?

Verona has free city-wide Wi-Fi. To connect, you'll need the Verona Smart App, which is free to download. Just connect to the Wi-Fi network when you're in range, and you're good to go. Look out for the blue streetlights around the city, which provide the internet access.

Wi-Fi streetlight

App icon and navigation inside

How to get my Tax Free refund at Verona Airport?

I had to figure out the Tax Free refund process at Verona Airport, and I'm sharing it with you. To get your Tax Free refund, head to the Departures Terminal in the airport, and you'll need to use your bank card - cash refunds aren't available. To be eligible for Tax Free in Italy, you need to spend at least 155 euros, and the shop staff will give you a receipt with the purchase details. Make sure you have your passport with you, as the shop assistant will need to scan it.

First, register for your flight and get your boarding pass.

Next, head to the customs area, which is a small kiosk near the check-in area. It's called Dogana (Customs) in Italian. You'll need to get a stamp on your refund cheques. Show the customs officer your passport, boarding pass, and the receipt with the cheques. Sometimes, you might need to show the items you've purchased, especially if they're from Apple.

After getting the stamp, fill in your bank card details if required, or do it in advance. There's a plastic box near the Dogana kiosk where you need to deposit the refund cheques. Make sure they're sealed properly.

I've been waiting for my Tax Free refund for three weeks now, but it still hasn't arrived.

Airport of Verona layout

We needed to get to the Departures Terminal ASAP

And then we saw the signs

Even closer, DOGANA right above the Check in Area

And here's what the Tax Free refund receipt looks like, unfolded, with the second receipt showing my bank card details and a spot for a stamp

Honestly, we fell in love with Verona - I'd highly recommend the city!

Everyone will find something that suits their taste in this place.

Wishing you all great vacations and dream trips!