The Magic of Moscow's Metro: A Journey Through Beauty, Mystery, and Chaos
I've always been fascinated by Moscow's metro system, and for good reason. It's a gift from the city's past, a testament to the ingenuity and craftsmanship of its people. But it's not just about the architecture or the history – it's about the experience. Stepping into the metro on a sweltering summer day or a chilly winter morning is like stepping into a different world. A world of beauty, mystery, and chaos.
Did you know that the metro wasn't always called by its current name? It was initially named after Comrade Kaganovich, and it wasn't until 1955 that it was renamed in honor of Vladimir Lenin. But regardless of its name, the metro has always been a convenient and essential part of Moscow's infrastructure. And over the years, I've had my fair share of love-hate relationships with it. There have been times when I've loved it (when the route to work was convenient, of course!), and times when I've tolerated it. But now, when I get to ride it during off-peak hours and take my time to admire the sights, I've fallen head over heels in love with it.
It's only when I take my time to explore that I've started to notice just how breathtakingly beautiful some of the metro stations are. Like Komsomolskaya, for example. The way it was built, with the concept of a 'palace for the people,' is still palpable today, and that's exactly what I feel when I'm there. The ceiling is adorned with stunning mosaic panels depicting scenes from Russian history – from Alexander Nevsky to the victory in the Great Patriotic War. And the gold ornaments, carvings, and magnificent chandeliers? It's like stepping into royal chambers. Every time I look up, I feel like I'm transported to another world where time stands still.
The stained-glass windows in Novoslobodskaya are like windows into a fairy tale. They glow with a soft light, creating an incredible sense of enchantment. Each window is a small work of art, featuring floral patterns and geometric designs. And then there's Mendeleevskaya, which is like stepping through a portal into another dimension. The 'World in One World' panel is huge, dramatic, and full of bluebirds and unity symbols that always leave me standing there, taking in the details.
Tverskaya is a station that looks pretty standard at first glance, but it's got a few tricks up its sleeve. For one, its simplicity and minimalism make it the perfect canvas for holiday decorations – it's transformed beyond recognition. And then there's the 32 stained-glass panels, designed by the legendary Zurb Tsereeteli, which are lit from within. Each one depicts a church from an old city or village, and it's fascinating to see them up close.
Belorusskaya seems incredibly spacious, like there's an unusually large amount of air in there. For me, its design is a bit like a marshmallow – light, airy, and sweet. That's the effect of the light tones and soft lighting. And on the ceiling, there are more mosaics, this time dedicated to the Belarusian people – scenes of rural life, their daily routines, and hobbies.
Revolution Square is a must-visit – at least, that's what the locals claim. And it's not just because of the 76 bronze statues, many of which are duplicates. The main attraction is the border guard with a dog. Apparently, the dog used to be a good luck charm for students taking exams – they'd rub its nose (or noses, since there are a few of them) for good fortune. Now, it seems like everyone rubs the dog's nose, as it's become a symbol of success.
When I'm out with my girlfriend, I've noticed she's always reading a book. Apparently, she's not a fan of PDA, so I'm only allowed to touch her shoe. It's clear that some people in Moscow take their traditions seriously – like the fertility ritual at the figure with a kid. Our goal is to, ahem, 'bless' the kid's leg.
But there's another mystery that's still got me stumped – the metro's 90th birthday exhibit at the Partizanskaya station. It's a retro car exhibit, and while it's interesting, it's not exactly what I was expecting. There are only four cars, and the crowd is pretty intense – nothing really blew me away.
The real showstopper, though, was the train parade. On the Circle Line (clockwise), you could actually ride (not just get on and off) eight trains from different eras. I'm probably not a total expert, and I have to admit I got a bit lost – I've ridden all these trains before, but I couldn't tell which ones were rare and worth checking out.
Did you know that there's a 'Metro scent'? Not the one that smells like a mix of dampness, metal, and human crowds, but a specifically designed perfume called 'Moscow Metro' scent? It's actually a few of them, chosen by the city's residents through a vote. But specifically on the Filovskaya line, you can experience the scent without leaving the train. They periodically aromatize the cars.
Apparently, it's supposed to smell like green tea. Apparently, people like it. But personally, I didn't get it. Firstly, I thought it wasn't green tea, but something floral, and secondly, it's really jarring and clashes with the authentic, one-of-a-kind smell of the trains, which feels a bit unnatural.
Did you know that there are cafes inside the metro? And one of them is located on the 'Arbat' station on the Filovskaya line. You can pop in to take a break, sniffing the scents I mentioned earlier.
This place is legendary, actually. It's called Cafe #11, and stepping inside is like stepping into a Soviet-era time capsule. The decor is styled after that era. It's cramped inside, but incredibly clean and tidy. Prices are ridiculously affordable – I was craving a latte with this adorable 'bird's milk' pastry, but after the doctor's visit, I wasn't allowed to eat anything yet.
The buffet staff was completely ignoring me – the attendant was watching TV in the back, so I snapped a few photos and left, drooling all over the place.
This makeover is part of the metro's 90th-anniversary celebrations, and you can see it until mid-June, I think – I couldn't find any more specific info.
And, of course, another big news story in the world of metro – the Stalin bust has been restored at the Taganskaya station. Oh, the hate he's getting!
Let's get real – the difference between what I expected and the reality is huge. I made a collage to show you what I mean. On the left, it's a retro photo, and on the right, it's my own, fresh shot. The contrast is striking.
I was about to wrap up my review when I remembered I promised to share some life hacks for rush hour. Years of navigating crowded public transportation have taught me a thing or two. Back in the day, I had low blood pressure, and to avoid getting knocked over by the swarm of people, I'd always try to sit down, especially during peak hours. So, how do you make the most of this strategy? Simple: get into the train car as soon as possible. And to do that, you need to know where the doors will open. It's not rocket science, but for some reason, people always look at me like I'm a witch when I share this tip.
So, let's take a closer look at the floor:
Got it? You want to find the most trodden path. It's the same principle I used to figure out the access codes for my rental apartments – the right buttons were always worn down and polished (and, let's be real, some unwanted characters probably used the same method too).
And then the train arrives – voilà:
The accuracy of my spot selection is around 95%. Keep in mind that the train composition might vary, and the door arrangement might change, but that's rare.
I marked this spot in red for a reason. It's where I usually stand to avoid getting squished by the exiting crowd. Plus, years of observation have taught me that people exiting on the right side tend to move faster than those on the left. So, when everyone's still exiting on the left, I make a beeline for the train and try to grab a spot. If all seats are taken, I hover around the people who seem about to get off, waiting for them to rise. It's not exactly rocket science – just look for people without their phones, a slightly tense posture, and occasional glances up at the station sign. To avoid getting trampled, stand on the opposite side from the expected direction of the train's movement, heading towards the next set of doors.
These little hacks have been a lifesaver for me over the years, helping me navigate the metro with ease. Hopefully, they'll do the same for you – or at least give you a good laugh when you surprise your travel companions with your metro skills.
There's something magical about the Moscow metro – it's not just a mode of transportation, it's a whole world: from palatial underground stations to eerie, yet captivating platforms, from retro trains to the aromas and cafes. I'm a sucker for the romance of empty metro cars – it's a rare chance to see the city's underground infrastructure in all its glory: majestic, mysterious, and beautiful.
Thanks for reading!