A Christmas Miracle in Design: This Place Transformed My Expectations

When I think of architectural metamorphosis, I'm reminded of the way the Esztergom Basilica looks from a certain angle. At first glance, its classicist facade seems understated, but as you take in the entire structure with its two towers and dome, you realize just how complex it is. You really need to be up high to appreciate the scale of the building.

There's something about the way the Greek classical tradition has undergone a transformation in Germany, Austria, and Hungary that really catches my eye. This style, known as "Zopf," is characterized by a puritanical simplicity, but with a touch of hardness, rectangular forms, and minimal antique decoration.

The Esztergom Lyceum is located right across from the Basilica.

It's the central building of the Károli Gáspár University of the Reformed Church in Hungary - an 18th-century architectural landmark that's steeped in history.

Esztergom Bishop Károly Eszterházy, who oversaw the construction of the lyceum, came from a family that gave its name to not only the university but also a famous Hungarian dessert.

What's interesting is that the building was originally designed as a university, but it was rejected by the Austrian-Hungarian government under Maria Theresa and later by Joseph II.

By the way, check out my impressions of the imperial residence in this article.

Hungary. EsztergomMeanwhile, baroque architecture in the Austro-German-Hungarian region has also undergone metamorphosis. The facade of the lyceum features decorative elements in the so-called "Coff" style - also known as late baroque classicism, the "Wig" style, or Protestant baroque.

This style, which emerged in the second half of the 18th century, is characterized by the use of garlands, consoles, decorative elements, discs, rosettes, triglyphs, guttae, urns, and square volutes.

To the left is the complex of buildings that make up the archbishop's palace:

Hungary. EsztergomEntrance to the inner courtyard:

Hungary. Esztergom Hungary. EsztergomNext, our tour continues through the narrow streets of the Old Town.

Hungary. Eger A bright blue sky really made the otherwise dull December landscape pop. Hungary. Eger Hungary. Eger Plus, the shop and cafe windows were decked out in festive decorations. Hungary. Eger The historic center's residential buildings from the 50s have commemorative plaques marking them as architectural monuments. Traditional 18th-century buildings have decorative intermediate bands adorned with carvings and other elements – lanterns, sculptures, and cast door handles. Hungary. Eger Next, we strolled along the local Allé of Révény Hungary. Eger From various points, you can see the Eger Minaret Hungary. Eger And, of course, you'll find beautiful wrought-iron gates, fences, and even artistic storm drains (who would've thought?) that are works of art in their own right. Hungary. Eger Hungary. Eger On Stádiony Square, they had a Christmas tree set up. Unfortunately, the Christmas market had already closed down by the time we were there on December 24th. Hungary. Eger Hungary. Eger Hungary. EgerEger Town Hall is situated in the historic baroque building of the former monastery complex Hungary. EgerWatching the film about the history of Eger Minaret, the hero Istvan Dobo, and Minorite Church with a tour of the stunning interior decor is a must.

Hungary. EgerThe medieval castle is undoubtedly the main attraction in Eger. Hungary. EgerThere's a little stream running through the city - they call it a 'patak' in Hungarian, which literally means a flow or a trickle. Hungary. EgerOne of the things that struck me about Eger's architecture is how organic and intuitive it feels. The old European cities, including Eger, have been developed in a way that's almost haphazard, with one- or two- or three-story stone houses forming closed-off courtyards connected by galleries and passageways through arches of all sorts of configurations, with dead ends and unexpected exits onto narrow, winding streets. Hungary. EgerAnd then there are the intricately wrought iron gates and doorways. Hungary. EgerCheck out the balcony with its ornate console brackets - it's a great example of how these old buildings have been adapted over time. Hungary. EgerLook at that door to the basement with its skewed vaulted entrance - it's hard to imagine how that was planned out in advance. Hungary. Eger Hungary. EgerEvery street in Eger seems to lead to the Castle. Hungary. EgerThe cafes and restaurants are all closed, but there are still some souvenir shops open. Hungary. Eger Hungary. Eger Hungary. Eger Hungary. Eger Hungary. Eger Hungary. EgerHungary. EgerAnd we keep marveling at the architectural landscape's grandeur.

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Hungary. Eger Hungary. EgerSome shots had to be artificially enhanced, tidying up the marks left on the walls by the city's street artists. Using a photo editor, I remove the bane of European architecture - graffiti. Of course, there are examples (Kaunas) where the mural is a work of art, harmoniously combining with the architectural features of the urban landscape.

Hungary. EgerI have to admit, I even enjoy enhancing photos - ruthlessly violating the original's authenticity: I touch up the faded paint, add brightness and color, or add missing details where the graffiti's been removed - essentially the same thing, just with different tools and more innocuous in my opinion

Hungary. EgerAnother angle on the Eger Lyceum building with the observatory tower:

Hungary. EgerFrom a distance, you can see the decorations on the houses: sculptures, moldings, window shapes, balconies - whether the leaves on the trees are lush or not, all this architectural beauty would be partially hidden from view

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Hungary. EgerAfter making the loop, I headed back to Istvan Dobos Square, where the only open café remained. I warmed up with a hearty Hungarian goulash, savoring the view of the Christmas tree. Hungary. Eger Hungary. Eger Hungary. Eger Hungary. EgerWith my energy replenished, I made one last push and climbed up to Castle Hill. Hungary. EgerThe reward for this accomplishment was the view of the city. Right in the center, the towers and dome of the Basilica came into view, where our Eger tour had begun.

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