A fragrance that's full of surprises!
I'm still trying to wrap my head around how some scents are marketed as unisex, while others are strictly for men. And then there are the reviews that get skewed by people who are offended by certain notes. I mean, come on? Let's talk about Encre Noire, a vetiver scent that's been marketed as a men's fragrance, but honestly, it's for anyone who loves a good autumnal vibe.
As I was thinking about autumn a lot lately, I started to think that Encre Noire is the perfect scent to get me in the mood. Or, why bother with these half-measures when I can just grab a bottle and enjoy the season in full?
I'm not a fan of perfume reviews that talk about the soul – it's not very informative. Everyone's soul is different. But I guess it's my turn to throw around clichés. Because this scent makes me want to say:
You'll melt my heart
You'll feed me some delicious grechka
In other words, I'm not opposed to simple solutions in perfumery, as long as they're well-crafted and harmoniously developed.
Olfactory profile
I want a rich, full-bodied vetiver experience – minus the infamous shaving cream undertone.
I love balsams and resins in all their forms.
Occasionally, I spray a little poison in the direction of the luxury segment, which I find too easy.
I'm a fan of the rugged niche. Give me smoke, grime, and tobacco – and don't hold back!
I demand a dozen hidden meanings from a perfume, but only until I'm holding the Lalique Encre Noire in my hands.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Gender: men's (but it should be unisex)
Direction: woody, fougère
Concentration: edt
Year of release: 2006
Volumes and prices: 50ml - 2600 rub, 100ml - 3300 rub
Where I bought it: I picked this up from Allyur Perfume.
Direct link: click here
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The fragrance pyramid:
Top note: cypress;
Middle note: vetiver;
Base notes: sandalwood and musk.
My first impression:
Lalique 'Encre Noire' blew me away with their smooth, warm, incredibly sensual, and deep sound. The high-quality essential oils blend together seamlessly. The top notes are represented by a fresh pine scent of cypress. Its sparkling motifs, like a ray of sunshine on a cloudy day, clear my mind and evoke incredibly happy emotions. At the heart of the perfume composition LaLique 'Encre Noire' lies a dry, rich scent of heated earth. These amazing associations are reflected in the masculine accent of vetiver. The base notes of sandalwood and musk complete the harmonious symphony. Soft, warming bass chords envelop my body and give me a sense of emotional comfort.
Packaging:
Lalique chose minimalism in design long before it became mainstream. The black cardboard box with a texture that resembles wood is a classic. Originally, it had a wax seal.
One thing that really stands out is the bottle itself. It's made of heavy glass, which feels nice in your hand. The lid isn't magnetic, but it fits snugly onto the bottle.
WHAT DOES IT SMELL LIKE? MY FIRST IMPRESSION
From a design perspective
This is a simple, yet sturdy construction. It's incredibly oily in nature, so much so that you'd never guess it's a concentration of EDT - the scent is just so dense and full-bodied. The fragrance unfolds linearly, with a pair of notes that work together in perfect harmony.
From a fragrance perspective
At its core, the scent is built around three key notes: vetiver, cypress, and cashmeran. But beneath its straightforward facade lies a wealth of nuances and subtleties. The classic 'Ink' fragrance isn't as piercing as the A L'Extreme version - it's softer, and lacks the infamous gothic edge.
This story begins with cypress cones scattered underfoot in a half-abandoned park after a rainstorm. It's incredibly aromatic, yet still feels like a perfume - no harsh chemical notes here. The cypress has been stripped of its turpentine compounds, so it doesn't have that skunky quality. As the cypress gives way to cedar, the scent takes on a pleasant roughness and becomes drier. It's like walking on a carpet of needles, with a cozy crunch underfoot.
A hint of mossiness and finally, the vetiver heart comes out. The vetiver here is persistently nutty. On the woody base, it unfolds softly and smoothly, reminding me of the vetiver Cuir Vetiver Yves Rocher. The creaminess here is clearly due to sandalwood. It's a slightly toasted waffle and a slightly plum-like note.
Occasionally, technical notes shine through the oily haze. It's warm plasticine, Chinese calligraphy ink, and those childhood ink pens. Old mail, wax seals on packages, and that old wooden desk with a worn-out inkwell. This scent takes me straight back to my childhood.
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By emotions
Encre Noire is a cathartic scent. It's like having a good cry on a friend's shoulder, unloading all your emotions. And after that, sitting down, blowing your nose, and listening to the emptiness inside. You're no longer consumed by anger and bitterness; you've purged all the negativity, and now you're standing at the threshold of something new.
Technical characteristics
I want to clarify that I didn't mess around with the batch or look for a specific bottle from a particular year. I simply bought it from a trusted online store. What surprised me were the reviews criticizing Encre Noire for its poor longevity.
I don't know who these people are or how they've burned out their receptors with some kind of Balm Imperial. Because in high-humidity conditions on cold skin, Encre Noire lasts exactly eight hours. For an EDT concentration, that's a lot. When applied to hair, the composition easily lasts until washing.
Yes, it doesn't have a two-meter sillage, but from arm's length, it's still noticeable to those around you and the wearer.
Time of year
Late autumn, under a cozy sweater with a high collar, perfect for long walks in nature. And at the same time, thanks to its correct tone, you can wear it to the office. It'll quietly trail behind you, not bothering anyone. A companion scent for everyday wear.
Summer in small doses isn't too bad, but there are times when it feels way too heavy. It's clear that heat isn't its natural habitat.
By gender
I'd say it's a complete unisex scent – pleasant and easy to wear on both men and women. You can freely purchase it as a unisex fragrance.
Fragrances in a row
I've heard Encre Noire compared to Sycomore Chanel, and while they share some similarities, they're also quite different. They have the same main ingredient, but the structure is completely different. Sycomore has that signature Chanel twist, where the scent develops in a spiral. Encre Noire is more linear and straightforward. It lacks the aldehyde base and has a smaller volume, which is only logical given the price difference.
Conclusion: Encre Noire is already a classic in its own right. Created in 2006, it still sounds relevant today and continues to find fans among both men and women. It feels like autumn won't start without it.
Fragrances mentioned in the text:
What's new? Vetiver!
Chanel Sycomore
The golden ratio of gothic. Encre Noire A L'Extreme
More about me:
My AI-recommend – a tempting pomade for a graphomaniac