A Hidden Gem in Kabardino-Balkaria: Chegem Waterfalls

I've been to Kabardino-Balkaria twice, and both times it's been a popular tourist destination, no matter what time of year. My husband and I went to the Chegem Waterfalls not once, but twice. The first time we went with a guided tour from Pyatigorsk in the spring. I'll write a separate review about that experience. The second time, we went with friends in the fall, driving ourselves.

Where are the Chegem Waterfalls located?:

The Chegem Waterfalls are about 50 kilometers from Nalchik, the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria. Getting there is relatively straightforward by taxi or car from Nalchik. Summer and fall are the best times to visit the waterfalls, as you can actually see something.

What's the road like and how to get to the Chegem Waterfalls?:

If you're on a guided tour, you'll need to walk a bit further to get to the waterfalls themselves, as the buses usually stop at the upper plateau of the Chegem Gorge. It's about a 20-minute walk. The Chegem Gorge is a beautiful place in itself. The rocks in some areas seem to converge right above you.

Chegem waterfalls. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.One of the things that struck me was how the waterfalls sometimes hang over the road, so you have to walk right under them. Chegem waterfalls. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.Chegem waterfalls. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.Don't forget to bring a refillable bottle, because there's a 'Silver Spring' source of clean drinking water here. You can fill up your bottle and take it with you on the road. If you didn't know about that, you can also buy refillable bottles here. It's a good idea to bring warm clothing, as it can get chilly in the gorge, except in the summer. The fog that rolls in is also a pretty common occurrence. Chegem waterfalls. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.The road to the main waterfalls is asphalt and smooth. The pedestrian area is separated by railings in some places, but not everywhere. As we walked down to the bottom of the gorge, we saw a few smaller waterfalls on the right-hand side.

Chegem waterfalls. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.And there's a crystal-clear mountain river running through the gorge the whole way.

Chegem Waterfalls in Spring. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.Chegem Waterfalls in Spring:I was expecting to see some serious waterfalls in the spring, but what's left is just a trickle. The water cascades down from about 30 to 40 meters high, but it's all frozen up in ice.

Chegem Waterfalls. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.You can't get too close to the waterfalls because there are fences everywhere.Chegem Waterfalls. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.Chegem Waterfalls in Autumn:We were lucky enough to visit in the fall, and it was a whole different story. The waterfalls looked way better, and the river below was this gorgeous milky blue color. I had to sneak around the fences a bit to get some good shots, but it was worth it.

Chegem Waterfalls. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.I've gotta say, we hit the waterfalls on the exact day they don't usually take tourists. It was just stunning! We could walk right up and take photos from any spot we liked – no crowds to deal with. And yeah, it was a real treat. Although, I have to admit, when we heard 'waterfalls', we were expecting something a bit more epic. But honestly, it was still a great experience. I'd actually recommend checking out the Adai-Su waterfall, which is just a bit further down the road from Chegem. Plus, if you've got your own ride, it's a no-brainer.

Infrastructure:

The spot near the waterfalls has a pretty standard setup for a place like this. There's a cafe, parking, and a small market.

I've seen markets that start in the middle of nowhere, but this one's in the middle of a stunning backdrop – the Chegem Waterfalls in Kabardino-Balakria. The market's got everything: artisanal cheeses, honey, jam, and all sorts of edible goodies. You can also find some amazing handmade crafts, from woven baskets to leather goods. Chegem Waterfalls. Kabardino-Balakria. Chegem Waterfalls. Kabardino-Balakria. Chegem Waterfalls. Kabardino-Balakria. When we visited the market, we decided to try some of the local honey. There were so many different flavors to choose from, and the vendors were happy to let us taste before we bought. Of course, the market's a bit of an eyesore, but it's worth it for the honey alone.

Chegem Waterfalls. Kabardino-Balakria. If you're a fan of handmade ceramics, be sure to check out this little shop. It's tucked away on the right-hand side of the road, just before you head down to the waterfalls. They've got some beautiful pieces, from wine jugs to tea sets and cups.

Chegem Waterfalls. Kabardino-Balkar Republic. Be prepared for the fact that toilets are located outside. There are really scary toilets, called mountain toilets, with a terrible smell, no light, and no hot water to wash your hands.Cafes, prices:

There are a lot of cafes with local cuisine near the waterfalls. You can try khinkali – a local national dish, shashlik, lyulya-kebab, and many other things. We went into the first cafe we saw. The cafe itself is just a regular dining room on the second floor. We ordered a shashlik made of lamb. It turned out to be very tasty, and the meat just melted in your mouth. The cabbage in the dish was a bit too sour. It was like it was starting to go bad. Of course, we didn't eat it.

Chegem Waterfalls. Cafe. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.But the khinkali turned out to be delicious (well, one khinkali). It's like a thick pancake with a meat filling.Chegem Waterfalls. Cafe. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.We took two enormous chebureki for the road

Chegem Waterfalls. Cafe. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.In the midst of the tourist rush, the wait for food is prolonged. And the cooks often get orders mixed up. The kitchen is in complete chaos. The cooks are running around, trying to figure out what's already been prepared and what still needs to be cooked. I think the prices are quite reasonable, considering we're in the mountains.

We decided to head back to the trendy Kurman cafe for the second time. It's right across from the Chegem Waterfalls. I highly recommend checking it out – you won't regret it. The shashlik service is top-notch.

Chegem Waterfalls. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.Things to Do: Every day, they bring an ostrich, a horse, and a camel to the waterfalls, which you can ride and take photos with. Unfortunately, we missed out on that experience since we arrived before the tour buses and the animals were brought in around lunchtime. We just got to watch as they were led to their jobs)

Chegem Waterfalls. Kabardino-Balkar Republic.The Verdict:

The growing tourist market can be a bit of a pain when it comes to taking nice photos, but you've got to see it all and experience everything for yourself. That's the only way to truly broaden your horizons and gain some valuable experience.

Wishing you all happy travels!