Discovering the Hidden Gem of Upper Mandrogi Village

I've been hearing about Upper Mandrogi village for ages, and everyone's been raving about it. When it finally opened, social media was flooded with info and photos. I was curious to check it out, but somehow I kept getting sidetracked or prioritizing other places. I finally made it there last summer, and I've got some stories to share.

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We visited as part of a one-day excursion tour, and I won't go into details about the tour itself, but the main attraction was the village, and that's what I'll focus on.

We headed to the Leningrad region, specifically the Podporozhsky district, where the village is nestled deep in the woods, right on the banks of the Svir River. I'm not sure why they chose this spot, but it's a great location, thanks to the river's deep waters, which allow large excursion boats to dock. You can also reach the village by car, bus, or train, with transfers in nearby towns or villages. Without a car, it's a bit of a challenge.

The entrance fee to the tourist complex is 800 rubles, which is the price we paid this year. To be honest, I think it's a bit steep. I'd have been happy to pay the 500 rubles we paid last year.

First things first, I have to mention that all eight of the village's izbas were brought from the Vologda region. They were disassembled, numbered, and rebuilt, and they're all from the 19th century. However, there are only eight of these traditional izbas – the rest are modern ones that serve as guesthouses and simple cottages for accommodation.

When you visit the recreated izba, you'll actually see craftsmen living and working there. Yep, right in the izba. They come here seasonally, usually in the summer, and head back out in the winter. You can visit these izbas as part of a guided tour or on your own.

The village is pretty big, so there's plenty of room to roam around. You can even stay overnight, but be warned: prices are steep. If you're looking for a more affordable and peaceful experience, consider renting a cabin at a nearby resort instead. This place is always bustling with tourists – think dozens of tour buses, plus solo travelers and boats arriving by the water. But don't worry, it's not chaotic. People tend to wander off in different directions.

The staff in the village are super friendly and knowledgeable. Our tour guide was particularly great – she's clearly passionate about the place and lives on-site in a special dormitory for staff. I was really impressed by her enthusiasm. If you're interested in learning more about the area, be sure to check it out.

This beautiful terem is actually the 'Guest House' restaurant. I'd only recommend stopping by if you're traveling independently – otherwise, it's not worth your time.

This map is huge, covering a small peninsula with its own dock for riverboats and a ferry terminal to the 'Lukomorie' zone.

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There are even signs to help you navigate.

Every single cabin is intricately carved and gives you a glimpse into the lives of the Russian North.

The tour guide explains everything, but I'm afraid I didn't catch it all.

And here's the iconic snowshoe - I was lucky enough to see it safely behind glass. The locals love to take a piece of the wool as a souvenir, but our craftsman has had to fix it a few times already!

I've had some pretty wild experiences in these little workshops.

We visited two craftsmen.

The first guy makes these traditional Russian cookies called kozuli - they're basically a type of spice bread. He's super passionate about his work, but not exactly the most welcoming guy to tourists from the cruise ship. I mean, he's got a great sense of humor, but it felt a bit awkward, you know? Like, I was worried we might be the next group of tourists he'd be complaining about. As a result, I ended up not buying any cookies from him, even though they looked really good.

The second craftsman was a musician who makes all sorts of instruments. He was super knowledgeable and showed us how each one works.

Visiting each of these guys took around 30 minutes.

Our trip to the village on June 12th was a real treat - the lilacs, dogwoods, and other flowers were still in full bloom, making the village look absolutely stunning.

Next, we headed to the ferry crossing. The young ferryman was spinning the ferry's wheel all day long, transporting us across the Petkalev stream in just 10 minutes. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't on our side - it started pouring just as we were crossing.

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Lukomorye. The name says it all - we've stepped into a fairytale by Pushkin, and we're about to meet the wooden sculptures of the fairytale heroes. I have to say, I was really disappointed with Baba Yaga. The hut on chicken legs was a total letdown too. A lot of the sculptures looked creepy and bulky. Honestly, if we hadn't visited, we wouldn't have missed out on anything, so if you're going on an excursion, I'd recommend taking a self-guided tour instead. The guided tour was interesting and informative, but we saw very little. And to be honest, I barely remembered anything from it.

But some of them were pretty cute.

We took a stroll through the forest, snapped some photos, and then headed towards the Prophet Elijah's Temple.

The temple was nice. We were treated to a church performance there.

Each of these performances, whether it's in the temple or at the craftsmen's stalls, is all about selling something - whether it's honey, jam, or just making a donation.

After visiting the temple, we headed back to the boat, and our tour ended at the vodka museum. I wish I'd had more time to explore the place on my own, but our guided tour left us with barely any time for that. We missed out on seeing the mill, which is one of the main attractions.

That's what the vodka museum looks like.

We managed to zip through the souvenir shops, but it was the usual story - overpriced and boring, like everywhere else.

I have to say, there's definitely some fun to be had here. We took a leisurely ride on the sleds and even rented some bikes. But time was of the essence, and we only had a chance to take a quick look around and grab a cup of tea with some local pastries. Those pastries were a bit pricey, to be honest - I'd say it was a bit steep for what you get. A proper meal, however, was waiting for us at the monastery we visited next. I wish we'd stayed longer here, though.

The village itself is really pretty, and I'm sure you'll find something to love. If you've got the space, I'd definitely recommend stopping by - but if time is tight, prioritize what's most important to you. Unfortunately, this place feels like it's all about getting as much money out of you as possible, which is a real shame, especially since the village itself is so charming. I'd give it five stars for effort, but the prices are a bit too much to handle. It's up to you to decide whether or not to visit Mandragora - I just wish they'd focus on the experience rather than the bottom line.