I've always been fascinated by St. Petersburg's unique architecture, and one building that truly stands out is the income-generating house in the Northern Modern style at 35 Bolshaya Morskaya. This stunning structure, built in the early 20th century for the Russian Insurance Society, is a must-see for anyone interested in history, architecture, or just looking for a glimpse into the past. The house was built between 1905 and 1907 for the Russian Insurance Society.
I've written about my love for Northern Modern-style houses before, but this particular house has so much to offer that I couldn't wait to share my thoughts and photos with you. From its beautiful exterior to its intricate interior details, every aspect of this building is a testament to the skill and craftsmanship of its architects and builders. The architects behind this project were Alexander Gimpel and Vasily Ilyashev.
You can spot the symbol of the Russian Insurance Society on the top central spire.
Let's start with the exterior.
The granite façade of the house is a beautiful sight, with different shades and textures adding to its charm. The house is symmetrical around the pointed spire, which gives it a sense of balance and harmony. Take a closer look, and you'll notice a maiolica frieze running along the fifth floor, just below the cornice. It's a stunning example of decorative art, featuring a unique and thought-provoking design.
Mayolica is a type of ceramics that's been glazed and painted.
A frieze is basically a decorative horizontal strip.
Looking at this panel, you'll see guys in armor, shields, and swords riding horses.
This panel is based on designs by Nikolai Rerikh, depicting ancient Russian military campaigns.
And above the windows on the second floor, there are triangular inserts with mosaic artwork focused on the northern theme.
The second- and third-floor windows are quite large, with glass inserts at the top that create a sort of railing effect. The main entrance doors have glass panels with a frosted finish – it's the same design used for the front door's glass enclosure.
Faceting is an artistic glass treatment where the edges are cut at an angle. When light hits the beveled edge, it refracts and creates a sparkling effect, similar to a diamond.
I love the balcony in the central window on the second floor and the long one on the fourth floor with three windows. The railing has a fun snowflake design.
Now, let's head inside.
The entrance hall and staircase are adorned with a decorative frieze. Even after all these years, it still gives me a thrill.
In the entrance hall, we see bas-reliefs: a walrus above the archway leading out (from the side heading towards the exit)
To the left of the arch, there's a penguin in full stature against a snowy backdrop:
And to the right, a man representing the northern people.
Now, I'm wondering, why there are these polar animal and human reliefs here?
As it turns out, the architects had a clever idea. Each floor is dedicated to a different time of year.
On the first floor, winter reigns supreme, with polar bears, penguins, Arctic explorers, reindeer sleds, the Northern Lights, and snowflakes. By the way, there are even snowflake patterns on the arches and a polar sun.
At the Rosfoto Museum, you can even experience a tactile penguin exhibit for the visually impaired, featuring the same penguin relief from the first floor.
The reliefs continue to delight on the next floors. As it's a building for the Russian insurance company 'Rossia', the frieze represents different climate zones and times of year in the country. So, insurance is possible everywhere and anytime! Clever marketing, if you ask me!
And now, let's head up to the floors where different times of year take center stage: winter at the bottom, spring on the next floor, summer on the third, and spring again on the top floor.
As I explored the space, I found all sorts of wildlife, like rabbits and squirrels. I even spotted a fox chasing after them. There are also deer, rabbits, and birds to discover.
The dense forests with pine trees and birds perched on branches were a highlight. If you can make it to the top floor, you'll be rewarded with a giant frog on the ceiling.
As you climb the stairs, you'll catch glimpses of stunning stained-glass windows with a nature theme. They lead out to the courtyard.
Looking out the window, you'll see the inner courtyard of the house.
The staircase is easily accessible.
I've also noticed the panel with the opal and opalescent plates that create the artwork. It's a beautiful depiction of a winter landscape, complete with snow-covered ground and mountains.
Every time I visit grand halls and opulent rooms in old mansions, I find myself wondering how much firewood they must have had to buy and how often the servants had to clean out the ashes from the fireplace to keep the place warm.
For us today, decorative fireplaces are just a beautiful piece of art. But back then, they were the primary source of heat that kept ladies in their finery and gentlemen in their fancy suits from freezing to death.
That's why I always get a kick out of seeing old fireplaces and chimneys that have made it through the centuries – even if they've been restored.
In the interior of our home, there's a large collection of ceramic fireplaces with different designs and colors on the tiles.
They were made in Russia, Finland, and Germany.
You can already see the fireplace in the grand hall. It's a black one.
And check out the wall behind the fireplace, which is decorated with tiles in a natural theme.
I've seen a lot of homes without central heating, and this one was no exception. It's got a ton of stoves, which you can now see at the Rosfoto museum.
Some stoves are super plain, just white. I learned that they used to be a lot cheaper than the decorated ones, about 3-4 times less. That's what I discovered at the Ceramic Art museum, Keramarch.
Check out this simple stove – it's not fancy, but it's really beautiful.
And here's a stove with a little shelf on top. The pattern above is a stripe.
And then there's this stove – it's a real showstopper. The tiles have little bumps on them, and the top has a bird design.
I love the green stove. It's got some great tile work with pinecones and a nice facade design.
But then I saw this stove with some really nice plant patterns.
And then I stumbled upon a yellow-themed book store with a fireplace that really caught my eye.
But what really got me was the ceiling work – the plaster designs are so intricate and match the theme of the whole building.
The staircase railings are adorned with plaques featuring the characteristic patterns of northern modernism.
There are also reliefs in the niches on each floor. They're not just for show, either.
Aside from the Rosfoto Museum, this building also houses the Starotova Politics Museum (though it's not always open, and you'll need to book in advance) and the Judicial Department Administration.
I highly recommend taking a closer look if you get the chance. You won't find anything like this anywhere else!