A Hidden Gem for a Weekend Getaway in Ryazan

I recently found myself in Ryazan for three days on business, and at first, I didn't plan on exploring the city. But curiosity got the better of me, and I started my exploration at the beginning of Freedom Street and the adjacent Furmanov, Griboedov, Radishchev, Shchedrin, and Voznesenskaya streets.

What struck me was the sheer number of old houses in this part of town - they're a real treat for the eyes. Although many are abandoned and slated for demolition, that's just the way it is. The atmosphere is old-fashioned and provincial, the streets are green and shaded, thanks to the city authorities for not cutting down every tree with a chainsaw like they do in Kaliningrad.

The old houses are adorned with intricate decorations - sometimes entire compositions of lace that take your breath away. Ryazan used to be good at woodworking, and it shows in the craftsmanship.

A typical Ryazan scene of old and new coexistingCherry blossoms in cozy little gardens, street fountains with water for everyone - although the water from the fountain tastes just like tap water, and I'm not supposed to drink it straight from the tap, but I did. It's actually quite refreshing!

Accommodation. I stayed in the new Northern residential complex, in the Olympic Village area. Studios start from 2,500 rubles per night, which is a pretty steep price for the summer. But there's a bus stop nearby, and it takes only 30 minutes to get to almost any part of the city - no need to overpay for being in the 'center', if you ask me.

Commute. The routes are at least two, and they run very frequently until late evening. In rush hour, they're often packed, but why would a tourist want to be in rush hour, anyway? The fare with private drivers is 40 rubles. For comparison, in Kaliningrad, where fuel is transported by sea on ferries, it's 33 roubles without a card and 28 roubles with the "VOLNA BALTII" card. I'm not entirely sure what's going on with Riazan's pricing, though. But hey, eggs of the second category in the nearest Magnit are 39 rubles! And in "Da" across the street, it was even 29. Plus, there are plenty of discount stores in Riazan - "Chizhik", "Yarche!" - where everything is cheap.

Food. In my travels across Russia, I cook myself because I'm not willing to pay 500 rubles for the same omelette with tomatoes and toast for breakfast, or 1,000 rubles for a piece of meat with a side dish for lunch. The prices in Riazan's cafes are almost as high as Moscow's. If I wanted to grab a coffee somewhere in the city, I'd head to the nearest grocery store. In "Yarche!", an Americano costs 39 roubles, in Pyaterochka, it's 49. Add some kozinak with sesame seeds for 22 roubles, and it's almost a PP-snack. For less than 100 rubles!

Attractions. Of course, the first thing on my list would be the Riazan Kremlin! It's a stunning complex of white-stone buildings and churches from the 15th to 18th centuries.

The Kremlin was originally called Pereslavl when it was founded in 1095 on a high hill, where the rivers Tver and Lybed merged, as a watchtower of the Great Riazan Principality. According to the Sledovannaya Psalter, it became the residence of the Grand Prince in the 14th century and one of the main defensive centers of the Big Zasechnaya Line.

Yes, modern-day Riazan isn't exactly Riazan. The old town, first mentioned in 1096, was located 50 km upstream, on the Oka, and was destroyed by Baty in 1237. Almost 800 years ago!

I was pleasantly surprised that the Kremlin isn't hemmed in by development - it stands amidst fields and old, half-rural cottages, which only adds to the sense of antiquity. Right behind the walls, there's a path to the Lybed River, where local kids run to swim. What a beauty! I expected a lot worse: a bunch of cafes and souvenir shops, noise, crowds, and buses full of tourists. But all I found was a monastery refectory, one blini stand, and, to top it off, a free toilet on the premises.

Kremlin Refectory

Although Prince Oleg of Ryazan wasn't the one living in it (he was way before my time), his coat of arms hung on the building for a long time. I was thinking about how the 17th-century builders managed to construct such masterpieces without even being able to spell their own names.

This is the Uspensky Cathedral. Built in the 17th century, by the early 19th century it was already in a sorry state, and the eparchy was seriously considering tearing it down. But Ryazan merchants Rumin and Malyshev invited an architect from Moscow, donated a significant amount, and the rest was collected from the people. The cathedral was restored, and now it's featured in every guidebook, and almost every tourist makes a point to stand next to it. (And how many big business patrons are there today who care about the fate of these old, beautiful buildings? Those who build hospitals, schools, and orphanages for their hometown?)

The buildings remind me of those intricately decorated cake toppers or gingerbread cookies - they're so aesthetically pleasing, cozy, and almost fairy-tale-like. Living in an area surrounded by such architecture always makes me feel at ease. Sometimes subconsciously, but my mood always improves when I'm surrounded by beauty. (These photos, unrelated to the Kremlin, are just a bonus - I thought they fit the theme of beauty.)

CathedralNikolo-Dvoryansky ChurchNikolo-Dvoryansky ChurchI spent some time exploring the riverbank and stumbled upon a dock for tourist boats – I didn't visit, but the old rickety bridge was way more interesting 😆

As I strolled along the river, I found myself drawn to the old wooden houses on the island. I love imagining the lives of the people who live here – they're so lucky to have this peaceful spot right in the heart of the city, surrounded by a forest that's so dense you can barely see a path through it. I'm glad I don't have to worry about gentrification or high-rise developments ruining this place. It's a real gem, and I'd definitely recommend visiting.

I also fell in love with the locals – they're so friendly and laid-back. This city has definitely earned a spot in my top list, and I've been to a lot of places in our amazing country.

Ryazan naming))Ryazan naming-2Ryazan naming-3When I left, I definitely felt like I needed a few more days to explore everything interesting and beautiful that Ryazan has to offer. Guess that's just a reason to come back! Park near the philharmonicThanks to everyone who made it to the end!