Discovering a Hidden Gem: Mari El's Unlikely European Oasis

I recently found myself in Kazan, Russia, and thought it'd be a great idea to explore some local tours through a reputable tour operator like this one. After checking out a tour in the Republic of Mari El, I was sold on the idea of visiting the place, especially considering how far it is from St. Petersburg - it's a bit of a trek, and not exactly cheap. Still, I was curious to see what Mari El had to offer.

As it turned out, there are a few decent churches, a market with a surprisingly pricey toilet (25-30 rubles, but I guess that's not too bad), and not much else to speak of. The only real highlight was the Naberezhnaya Brugge waterfront, which was a pleasant surprise. The church square is okay, I guess, but that's about it.

I've been to places where tourists are plentiful, but this one's a different story. There are even European-style malls here. Our guide from Kazan was telling us all sorts of crazy things about the Mari people, like how they believe in two faiths and use their 'grandfather frost' as a god, and how they still practice paganism in the woods. Apparently, they might even sacrifice animals, but mostly, they just get lost and are offered as a sacrifice. I wrote about this on my disc already. The Mari people's cuisine is quite unique, mostly consisting of porridges and oily pancakes stacked on top of each other like a pie. They're a forest-dwelling people who've always lived in the woods, hunting and gathering. I think there are around 280,000 of them in the republic. I mentioned earlier that the waterfront area was developed by the former head of the republic, who knew this place was a dump. He managed to wheedle some money out of someone to build replicas of European buildings, including ones in St. Petersburg and Moscow, to attract tourists. However, it seems that some of the money went missing, and the guy ended up in jail. Another quirky feature of the city are the clock towers where 12 apostles come out with Jesus in the middle at 12 pm, and they move around for 5-6 minutes. It's a bit of a spectacle, but I've seen more impressive ones in Europe, even in Belarus. There's another clock tower near the administration building where Jesus comes out on a donkey. People gather to watch. There's a monument to the patriarch. There's a statue of Peter and Fevronia on a boat, where newlyweds take photos. They're given a scroll with advice - the wife should listen to her husband like a god, and the husband should love his wife. There's a registrar office nearby, but once you enter, you can't leave through the entrance because the exit is on the other side.>I visited the square and was blown away by the historic monuments.

The Tsar Cannon, a massive 19th-century artillery piece, was a striking sight. Its presence on the square is a testament to the city's rich history. The founder of the republic, a bronze statue, is another notable landmark. I also spotted a quirky monument to Yushkin's cat, which is a fun little detail. The square is also home to a fountain and a clock tower, both of which are worth a photo op. Getting a good shot of the monuments can be a challenge, but it's worth the effort. I was also impressed by the clock tower's intricate details, including its clock face. The square is a great place to people-watch and take in the sights and sounds of the city. I was struck by the statue of Elizabeth on horseback, which is a beautiful work of art. I also learned that there's a free cafe nearby, Kafe 'Prostaya EDA', which is a great place to grab a bite to eat. The square is also home to a couple of other monuments, including a statue of the apostles and a monument to Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier III. And, of course, there are plenty of souvenir shops and vendors selling all sorts of knick-knacks. You can really tell this is a copycat product, and the brick quality is subpar - it's like a cheap Chinese knockoff that's not even weathered. It's a modern temple, for real. I've got a tiny kitten. The Kremlin's over there, with the market. Honestly, I've got to say I wasn't blown away by my visit to the country, and I didn't see anything that really caught my eye - maybe it was because I was distracted looking for my daughter who wandered off for a bit. My visit to the museum was a bit of a letdown, especially since I'd waited in line to return it. Luckily, I had my phone to double-check the return policy. The tour guide, who wasn't even local, seemed more interested in telling us about himself than actually showing us the sights. He'd regale us with stories, but when it came to answering our questions or providing any real insight, he just didn't care.

One interesting thing I did discover, though, was that the local spirits and liqueurs are made in the Kirov region, not here in Mari El. As you get further away from the city center, the vibe changes pretty quickly. The 5-story Khrushchev-era buildings and rundown apartments give way to a more bleak, post-industrial landscape. The guide told us that the job market is pretty tough here, and many locals struggle to make ends meet - some can barely afford to send their kids to Moscow, let alone abroad.

I couldn't help but think of my experience in Dagestan, where the situation is eerily similar. The photos I took are below.