Is the liquid marble restoration product suitable for my type of limestone tile?

The product is designed to work with a variety of limestone tile types, but it's always best to check the manufacturer's recommendations to ensure the best results.

How long does the restoration process take?

The application process typically takes around 30 minutes to an hour, depending on the size of the area you're working with.

Can I use the product on my entire bathroom?

Yes, the product is designed to be used on large areas, but be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions and take necessary safety precautions.

Is the product safe to use around children and pets?

The product is generally safe to use around children and pets, but be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions and take necessary safety precautions.

Can I return the product if I'm not satisfied?

Yes, the manufacturer offers a return policy, but be sure to check the details before making a purchase.

How long does the product last?

The product is designed to last for several years, but the exact lifespan will depend on usage and maintenance.

Can I use the product on other types of surfaces?

The product is designed specifically for limestone tile, but you can check with the manufacturer to see if it's suitable for other surfaces.

Is the product eco-friendly?

Yes, the product is made from eco-friendly materials and is designed to be sustainable.

What's the best way to apply the product?

The manufacturer recommends applying the product in a well-ventilated area, using a clean cloth or foam brush, and following the instructions carefully.

Limestone Tile Bathroom Restoration Product Review

I went into this project with high hopes, but unfortunately, the outcome wasn't what I expected. I'd done my research on liquid marble restoration, scouring the internet for real people's reviews and experiences. I wanted to get a feel for what to expect, rather than relying on generic articles or copy-pasted info.

So, I figured I'd share my own experience, hoping it might be helpful to someone else.

When we first moved into our house, we inherited a pretty old metal bathtub – not ancient, but not brand new either. It's from the mid-90s, and while it's not in perfect condition, it's not in terrible shape either. Just a bit faded from years of use, with no signs of physical wear and tear.

I didn't want to replace it, even though it's lost some of its original color and turned a bit gray over time. I think it's a really solid and reliable tub, unlike those flimsy acrylic ones you see in stores. I'm not a fan of those – they look like they'd fall apart at the slightest touch.

I didn't see the point in buying a new steel tub either. Demolishing the old one and installing a new one would be a huge hassle, especially in a small bathroom. I didn't want to deal with all that drama.

There are plenty of people offering bathtub restoration services, and even online tutorials to help you do it yourself. If you're feeling adventurous and don't mind getting your hands dirty, you can save some money by learning the process. You can buy the necessary materials easily, and you don't need any special certifications. But be prepared to sweat – a lot.

I actually skipped the middleman and went straight to the contractor on Avito. I didn't bother with a company or intermediary with an office in the city that would just hire the same workers at a markup. I found many of the contractors who worked on the renovation through Avito.

The price for restoring a bathroom with a liquid marble finish is pretty much the same across the board, give or take a thousand bucks. So, for a 1.5-meter-long bathroom, I ended up paying around 7,000 rubles in my city in 2024. Of course, the cost varies depending on the amount of material used, and the bigger the bathroom, the higher the bill.

Is it expensive? Not really, considering the work involved. And the final result? Not bad either. But what I learned during the usage process left me scratching my head...

About the process...

The first step is to physically remove the top layer of the existing finish (the enamel) from the steel bathtub. The contractor uses a grinder with some kind of abrasive blade.

It's incredibly loud. During the process, you get a mix of screeching, whining, and other nasty sounds.

The smell is also pretty intense. It's similar to the one you get at the dentist when they're drilling. Only more concentrated. We had the bathroom on the first floor, and I was stuck in the room on the second floor with my kid, with the windows open. Even the hallway on the second floor was unbearable. The contractor was working in a respirator and mask, but I still can't imagine how they manage to do this right next door in a small space.

I'm being honest, I don't know how they do it.

The process of cleaning the bathtub from the enamel takes a while. I didn't time it, but it felt like around 30-40 minutes.

The cleaning process only removes the smooth layer of the enamel, not the entire thing. I think the enamel itself doesn't interfere with the new finish, but the surface can't be perfectly smooth.

The whole messy process of stripping the top layer is just to get the surface rough enough for the new material to stick to the old.

After that, the master uses a showerhead to rinse away the fine dust that's created, and then removes the faucet and drain assembly. The drain is a siphon with an inlet and an overflow outlet, which gets taped up with masking tape to prevent water from seeping out during the application process.

The master then sets up a small container under the drain outlet, which is basically disposable.

Before applying the coating, the master uses a construction fan to dry the bathroom. It's still a bit noisy, but at least it doesn't stink.

The final prep step is to degrease the surface. I'm not entirely sure what the product is, but it smells like a mix between acetone and nail polish remover. The master tapes up the perimeter of the bathroom with masking tape, which doesn't really help with the drips.

The master brings in a pre-mixed coating in a bucket, which needs an activator added to it before application. They mix it up and start pouring it on.

The actual application process is pretty straightforward, but it does require some finesse and patience. The master works methodically and slowly to avoid any drips or uneven coverage. They work in a spiral pattern, starting from the outside and working their way in.

Of course, I didn't take any photos of the process – it was a bit too messy to get close to!

The master waits for payment and then heads out.

I have to say, the most surprising thing about this whole process was how long it took to set up. You're supposed to seal the bathroom off from drafts and leave it untouched for 36 hours, but I'd recommend leaving it even longer if you can.

The entire process took around four hours.

What really got my goat was the removable hardware that's supposed to make the process easier. Newsflash: it's a total pain!

The faucet and drain assembly are a real hassle to deal with. After 36 hours, you can't even use the bathroom without having to remove the container that's been catching the chemical runoff from the drain. And good luck getting the siphon to fit back on without cutting through the dried-on mess and sanding down the sharp edges.

And don't even get me started on the caulk and paint that's been spilled everywhere. You'll need to cut through the dried-on mess and sand down the edges before you can even think about reassembling the drain. It's like they're trying to make you hire a plumber or something.

Luckily, the nitrile gloves and nitrile sandpaper that come with the kit make the process slightly more bearable.

But in my case, the chemical runoff managed to seep under the tile and onto the floor, leaving me with a nasty mess to clean up.

I managed to get most of it off, but the tile still has a weird texture to it. And let me tell you, it was a real pain to get the sharp edges sanded down so they wouldn't scratch the tile in the future.

One thing that really bugged me before working with the client was that these details weren't discussed. I think some of them could've been weeded out if I'd understood that the job wouldn't be done 'from scratch.' The bathroom's not a room you can just skip for a long time.

But after all the touch-ups, courtesy of a skilled plumber, the bathroom was like new again.

So why did I give it such a low rating, despite the difficulties in achieving it?

It's simple, really...

The 'cast marmor' material is positioned as premium in terms of its resistance to mechanical damage. And it's actually a bit pricier than regular acrylic coating, since the binding agent has a bit of marble dust added to it (which is supposed to make it stronger), and marble is a pretty durable material.

Fast forward a week or two after starting use, and cracks started appearing on the surface...

Cracks, for crying out loud!

They look like scratches, and if I hadn't known the bathroom's being used for its intended purpose, I'd have thought someone was dragging metal objects across it. No, they're not. The bathroom's got a silicone mat with suction cups on it, and that's what's causing the cracks.

The cracks (which look like scratches) are all running along the length of the bathroom. If this was actual mechanical damage to the surface, the 'scratches' would be all over the place.

I think the issue is with thermal expansion and contraction of the coating when temperatures change. Overall, the marble chips might be a strong material, but the bonding agent clearly fell short.

The only silver lining is that these cracks eventually stopped forming, maybe the material just settled in the end, but now the bathroom doesn't look as good as it did initially, unfortunately...

After using it for a while.

I'm really doubting the recommendations now... Of course, the bathroom still looks better than before, but with these cracks, it's far from perfect again.

It's possible that the execution was off and I just made a mistake with the contractor, but nonetheless, I'm not too happy with the result.

This is a minus one star. The second star is deducted because the work isn't done 'under one roof' and requires additional work. And unfortunately, that's the case with all of them.