I've finally gotten around to sharing my thoughts on one of my go-to fragrances - Kilian's Black Phantom. To be honest, the scent is a bit polarizing, and even I was unsure about it when I first tried it.
I bought this fragrance blind, after much deliberation and research. I've always been a fan of the Kilian brand, and I adore their Angel's Share fragrance - I've got a 200ml bottle of it, and I've already written reviews for a few of their other scents.
Black Phantom By Kilian
Black Phantom kept popping up in coffee-chocolate fragrance collections, and I was always drawn to the sleek black packaging with the skull design. At the time, it seemed like a luxury I couldn't afford - the fragrance is definitely on the pricier side.
But as I've grown my fragrance collection over the years, I finally felt ready to splurge and try Black Phantom for myself. Everyone in the fragrance community seemed to rave about it, and I was curious to see what all the fuss was about.
Black Phantom By Kilian
I could have sampled Black Phantom through a decant, but I prefer to buy fragrances blind - there's something about the experience that just feels more special to me. So, I ordered a 50ml bottle and set out to explore the scent in more detail.
Black Phantom was launched in 2017.
The perfumer behind this fragrance is Sidonie Lancesseur.
The fragrance pyramid looks like this:
Top notes: Rum.
Middle notes: Dark chocolate, Coffee, Almond, and Heliotrope.
Base notes: Caramel, Sugar cane, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Tonka beans, and Vetiver.
Black Phantom By Kilian
The packaging and design of the bottle are seriously impressive - my standard edition came in a cardboard box that's basically a mini book, with the bottle snugly fitted into a foam insert and securely fastened.
I was hoping for the full-on presentation, with the bottle in a sleek black lacquer box with a key and a skull - but that's only available for older releases, and it's a whole lot pricier. So, I decided to go for the new edition, and if I ever want the fancy box, I can always buy it separately later.
Black Phantom By Kilian
The bottle itself is flawless - it's stunningly beautiful and stylish. The black color is perfect for this scent, it's dense and deep, and you can't even see any light through it, even with a flashlight. There are small slits on the bottle that let you see the liquid and the remaining fragrance.
Black Phantom By Kilian
The sides of the bottle are adorned with these intricate patterns in a matte black finish - that's Kilian's signature touch, and it looks amazing. The black color pairs perfectly with the gold metal details, the plate with the brand name engraved, and of course, that iconic phrase Memento Mori. The cap has a K engraved on it, just like the spritzer. Luxury in every detail.
Black Phantom By Kilian
Black Phantom By Kilian
Sound and associations:
I'm a bit of a foodie when it comes to perfumery - I love chocolate, caramel, cream, coffee, and berries. But as I've gotten older, I've found myself drawn to more complex, nuanced fragrances with a certain je ne sais quoi. Black Phantom falls squarely into this category. It's not just coffee, caramel, and chocolate - it's so much more than that.
Black Phantom By Kilian
Black Phantom By Kilian
The scent starts off with a boozy, whiskey-like note that's incredibly natural. Often, whiskey has a chocolatey aftertaste, and since the pyramid also features chocolate, it's like a match made in heaven. It's like you've just poured yourself a glass of whiskey and paired it with a piece of dark chocolate - I love explaining fragrances through associations.
Black Phantom By Kilian
After a little while, the boozy and chocolatey notes are joined by a smooth, creamy coffee with hazelnut undertones. The coffee is delicate, with a light, velvety texture - I think the hazelnut is what gives it that softness. The caramel adds a touch of sweetness and creaminess, and everything comes together to create a truly luxurious fragrance. But it's not all smooth sailing.
I've got to say, there's no mention of truffle in the pyramid, but I can distinctly pick up on it. It's a bit earthy, and it reminds me of Black Orchid by Tom Ford - that same earthy quality, but more subdued. The sense of damp soil harmonizes perfectly with the gourmand notes, and it's a huge part of what makes Black Phantom so unique, complex, and genuinely beautiful.
Black Phantom By Kilian
At first, I have to admit, that earthy note put me off a bit, but after a couple of months, the fragrance opened up, gained depth, and became so alluring that it's become a standout in my gourmand collection. I've come to appreciate its unique charm and why so many people love it.
Black Phantom By Kilian
Characteristics:
I wouldn't say the fragrance has a long sillage, but it doesn't need it. It wraps you in a rich, complex, gourmand cocoon that's still noticeable to those around you.
As for longevity, the fragrance holds up amazingly well, especially if it's left to mature in a dark cupboard. On clothing, it lasts around two days, depending on the fabric, fading gradually but still lingering until it's washed.
For me, this is definitely a fall-winter fragrance. On a drizzly, gloomy autumn day, it would blend in perfectly with the atmosphere, while in winter, it would be a great pick-me-up. Due to its rich gourmand notes and subtle earthiness, I can't see it working in the summer - it's definitely a cold-weather fragrance.
As for gender, the fragrance is unisex. It would work beautifully on a man, revealing a bit more boozy depth on the skin, while on a woman, it would showcase a bit more sweetness. It's a very versatile fragrance in that sense.
Black Phantom By Kilian
Black Phantom has been a total game-changer for me. It went from being a mystery to a full-on obsession, and I'm obsessed with how it's opened up and revealed its depth and beauty. The original scent is unique, with a distinct character and vibe. It's got a pull to it, is rich and intense, and just a little bit enigmatic - and it's totally unlike anything else. Now I get why people love it and why it's a standout among all the other niche fragrances.