What Secrets Does the Imperial Road Palace Hold? I Was Blown Away by Tver's Hidden Gem

I'd never been to Tver before, and to be honest, I didn't know much about the city. A friend of mine ended up moving there, and I thought it would be great to visit her. So, I packed my bags and headed to Tver, eager to explore the city. I'd already done some research and found the most notable places to visit – the Imperial Palace of the Tsars. I was excited to see what it had to offer, especially the painting gallery and unique exhibits. Plus, I'd read that the palace's interior had been reconstructed to look almost exactly as it did back in the day.

I'd been to the Russian Museum in St. Petersburg's Mikhailovsky Castle before, and it had left a lasting impression on me. I'd always wanted to visit the Hermitage and Peterhof, but that's not what this trip was about. I didn't think anything could surprise me in Tver after the Russian Museum, but I was pleasantly wrong. The Imperial Palace of the Tsars was definitely worth visiting, and it's no wonder that tourists from abroad come here. The staff at the museum spoke great English, and even the cloakroom staff could help if you needed it. I'll tell you and show you what I loved most about the Imperial Palace, and what you should be prepared for when you visit.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED FOR A VISIT

Price: 350-400 rubles

The ticket price was 350 rubles at the time of my visit in August 2024. If you're an adult without any discounts, that's what you'll pay. There are discounts for pensioners, people with disabilities, and children. Guided tours are extra, and if you want to visit the gardens, you'll need to pay an additional 50 rubles. You can also visit just the gardens and skip the palace, but you'll still need to pay for the vestibule. The orangerie is another 100 rubles, which you'll need to pay separately.

Time: at least 2 hours

First things first – where is it located?

Tver is a city that's easy to navigate, as you'll always end up near the Volga River. So, the Imperial Palace of the Tsars is right next to it, near the Old Volga Bridge, and the City Garden. You don't even need to enter the address – just type in 'Imperial Palace of the Tsars,' and your GPS will take you there. It's located on Soviet Street, number 3. When you arrive, you'll see a big square with a massive church, which is currently under construction. You can even see a panorama of the area on Google Maps to see how the church was built.

Imperial Palace of the Tsars (Tver, Russia)

On this photo, you can see Soviet Street behind me, the Volga Prospect to the left (behind the church), and the Museum of the History of Tver to the right. That's the pink building, which you'll see on the next photo.

What can you see here?

Let's start with some relatively modern history, but still interesting. The colonnade was once featured in a movie. Due to the reconstruction of the square, it's not as easy to spot as it used to be, especially since there was a fence around the pink one-story building.

Imperial Palace of the Tsars (Tver, Russia)

I'll show you a clip from that movie, and see if you can recognize it.

The Imperial Palace, TverIt's not always easy to guess, but I'll show you some easier shots

So, the next shot was from the position where we're looking at the building with a colonnade, standing on the square.

Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia)From here, you can see part of the Palace, one of its wings (on the left photo), the gates, the palace wall, the building with columns - now it's a children's museum center (on the right photo). And we're interested in the gates. In the movie, they were iron, now they're solid wooden.Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia), where they filmed Garde MarinsIf you walk along the wing, moving towards the entrance to the Palace, you'll get another filming location.

Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia), where they filmed Garde MarinsIf you still haven't guessed, the movie is 'Garde Marins, forward!', and the Palace played the role of Nikita Olenev's house - not bad, right?) So, the Palace keeps a secret - it played the role of St. Petersburg, but in reality, everything was in Tver.

By the way, this is not the only location in Tver that was part of the filming of 'Garde Marins', I've already written a review about the house with a balcony on Stepan Razin Embankment, and there are several other locations that I haven't had time to visit.

Well, let's go around the corner and start exploring the Palace.

Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia)The Palace has a shape like the letter 'p'. The entrance is in the center, don't worry, people always go there.Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia)You'll be greeted by a metal detector and a security guard who's very friendly and willing to help you find your way. In the vestibule, closer to the exit to the garden, there's a ticket office, and to the right, there are restrooms (useful, as you'll be walking around the museum for a while).

You can check your coat at the cloakroom, and they'll give you a nice ticket.

Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia) Picture Gallery

And now, let's start exploring the Palace!

I've never taken a guided tour; I prefer to explore on my own. I like to read about the exhibits and take my time to really absorb the information. Sometimes, I'll snap a photo of something interesting and do some research online to learn more. It might not be as exciting as having a guide, but I enjoy lingering in front of certain exhibits, taking in the silence, and making my own conclusions. Often, I'll spend hours at home poring over my photos and reading about the place. When you take your time to really observe, the details stick with you longer, and I've found that I can recall a lot of what I saw even years later. That's just my approach, and I'm not claiming it's the only way to do it.

So, the gallery tour starts on the first floor and you'll need to head down the corridor near the stairs. Don't worry, you won't get lost – there's always a museum staff member in each exhibit room who can guide you and help you find your way out.

Imperial Route Palace (Tver, Russia)So, the entrance to the first exhibits will be right next to this equestrian statue, and the ticket staff will tear off the control strip and point you in the right direction.

By the way, about the statue. That's a work by Artemy Obor, depicting Grand Prince Dmitry Konstantinovich:

This statue belongs to Artemy (Arthur) Obor, a Russian sculptor of French descent. Obor trained at the Imperial Academy of Arts, followed by studies in Paris with sculptor-animalist Antoine-Louis Bary. It was Bary's influence that shaped Obor's focus on animalism in his work. Obor quickly established himself as a unique master with his own approach to depicting animals. Unlike other sculptors, who created static portraits of animals, Obor sought to capture them in action – in pursuit, in struggle, or in the thrill of the hunt. Obor's bronze equestrian statue of Grand Prince Dmitry Konstantinovich was commissioned by the imperial family in 1904. Dmitry Konstantinovich was the grandson of Emperor Nicholas I and commanded the Life Guards Cavalry Regiment. He was an avid horse enthusiast and owned his own stud farm in Poltava. It's no surprise that he's depicted riding a horse. Dmitry Konstantinovich is dressed in a ceremonial military uniform, proudly sitting astride a majestic steed. The horse is equally impressive, with every muscle meticulously rendered, showcasing its breed and beauty. Obor creates a relaxed, realistic image of the horse, stripping away any sense of grandeur and focusing on its natural essence.

I'll share what struck me as the most interesting part and why, in the next section. Some exhibits might not be in the order I saw them, but I don't think that's a big deal. Plus, I understand that some parts of the exhibit change, and during my visit to the first floor, I saw the 'In the British Taste...' exhibit, featuring engravings, porcelain, and paintings. To avoid getting lost in the museum, there are signs and guides that are really helpful.

The Imperial Palace of Tsarskoe Selo (Tver, Russia)I love how the building's interior has not just corridors, but also passageways between rooms. Plus, you're constantly turning corners, and some parts of the building can be divided by a pretty unclear corridor or even a labyrinth of passageways. By the way, the corridors aren't straight – they curve. That's because the palace has been renovated multiple times. That's one of the palace's secrets that every visitor can notice with a closer look. Another one of the palace's secrets, I suppose.

The Tver palace has a special charm due to its layered architectural history. The building features elements from an earlier construction – the archbishop's house that burned down in 1763. Anyone visiting the palace can see this for themselves in the gallery. The most striking architectural feature is the curved corridors. – 18th-century architects were obsessed with clean, geometric shapes. But here, somehow, an antechamber was formed that bends, making a sort of elbow. And the outer wall of the palace is also curved – not because the architects were sloppy, but because they had to incorporate elements from the earlier construction. We can see this clearly here, – explains Vyacheslav Saveliev, a researcher of the Tver Imperial Palace.As you wander around, you start to feel like you're in a maze. It would be great if they had a floor plan available for purchase, like a souvenir. I'm pretty good at navigating, but even I sometimes got lost. So, the idea of providing a floor plan would be a hit with visitors. If they don't already sell something like that, it would be a great addition to the ticket counter.

By the way, the palace was built on the site of earlier constructions – the archbishop's house. This explains the unique features of the first floor, especially some of its parts. Check out this corridor – the ceiling's design is pretty unusual for a palace, right? The corridor itself is curved, and the ceiling's no ordinary vaulted ceiling either.

The first floor of the Imperial Palace of Tsarskoe Selo (Tver)What secrets lie beneath the palace's historical layer, only time will tell.When I walked through the palace, I noticed that the first floor is vastly different from the second in terms of construction and atmosphere. If you take your time and pay attention, you might notice something that most visitors miss.

What else caught my attention.

The Imperial Palace of Tsarskoe Selo (Tver, Russia)I was blown away by all the porcelain. You could spend hours admiring it... it's the kind of fine china that's hard to find in anyone's kitchen these days. The craftsmanship is exquisite.

Emperor's Way Palace (Tver, Russia)That staircase is begging to be climbed, right? I mean, who wouldn't want to? It's like the filmmakers took a cue from the Palace's design when they made those sword-fighting scenes in Gardemarins. Okay, maybe that staircase was a bit wider, and the railings had a more intricate pattern, but it's uncanny how similar they look. As for where they filmed that scene, I have no idea. One thing's for sure, though - I was determined to find out where that staircase led, but unfortunately, it was a no-go.

Some amazing works of art by Flemish, Dutch, and other artists adorn the walls. I was surprised to see how many pieces were unsigned - the artist's identity remains a mystery. The craftsmanship and attention to detail in each piece are truly impressive. It's a sad reality that time and memory can be so fleeting, no matter how hard we try to preserve them... or so it seems.

Emperor's Way Palace (Tver, Russia) Emperor's Way Palace (Tver, Russia)The furniture on display is incredibly diverse, and while it may not be as opulent as what you'd find in the Russian Museum or the Hermitage, each piece exudes a sense of craftsmanship and attention to detail. What struck me was how well-made each piece was - it's clear that the artisans put thought and care into creating something that would stand the test of time.

Emperor's Way Palace (Tver, Russia)Check out how the engraving on this wooden panel was used to create a beautiful design.

I was blown away by this painting, Mountain Landscape with River and Genre Scenes (late 16th to early 17th century, attributed to Tobias Verhaecht, 1561-1631). This Flemish painter and engraver was known for his work in the mannerist style.

He's primarily famous for his landscapes, which often featured fantastical and dreamlike elements.

This painting is located in one of the galleries on the first floor. Its sheer size takes your breath away, and when you stand right in front of it, you get the sense that you're perched on top of a hill or a building. I'm not kidding - my head started spinning when I gazed at it. The effect is even more pronounced when you see it in person, and I'm not the only one who felt it. The artist's mastery of perspective is truly awe-inspiring. That's what makes visiting museums so special - there's no substitute for experiencing a masterpiece up close and personal.

The Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia)What really caught my eye was the scene - it's packed with action and characters, and it somehow brings together several storylines. Plus, the perspective of the painting: it's like it's looking up at you, with the horizon slightly inverted, so you can fit in more storylines. The artist managed to bring together the musketeer battles, the ship battle, the robbers' schemes, the quiet scenes of rural life, the monastic and castle scenes, the development of trade and industry in the Netherlands, and the diversity of plant and animal life in one painting. Why so much in one? It was in demand and trendy back then.

- These universal landscapes, combining the real and the fantastical, were seen by the Flemish as a form of visual therapy and a way to combat melancholy, and for a modern viewer, they open up endless space for interpretation.I've noticed this with paintings for a while now. You look at photos online, and then you see them in person, and it's like a different world.

The Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia)

The Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia)This is one of the biggest draws of the gallery. Clod Joseph Vernet 'Landscape at Sunset. (Lake)', 1785 This painting was on loan to the Hermitage in 2023 for the 'Salons of Diderot' exhibition, but it's a permanent fixture in the Tver gallery.

The Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia)As the artist's signature shows, the painting was created in 1785. In 'The Book of Orders', Vernet has a record under #305 for 1784, which shows that this painting was one of two he created for the 'Entertainment Menu of the Royal Family' director Denis Pierre Jean Papiyon de la Ferte.

In 1785, the painting was exhibited in the Paris Salon; in the salon catalog, it's described as '28. ... a painting representing a sunset landscape, where people can be seen enjoying themselves on the lake shore'. There's a print by Italian artist Pietro Antonio Martini that shows the main hall of the 1785 Salon. On it, you can clearly see 'Landscape at Sunset' - it's positioned for the best view, slightly below and to the left of a portrait of Marie Antoinette by A. W. Vermuylen (now in the National Museum of Sweden).

Back in 1794, during the Reign of Terror in France, Papiyon de la Ferre got executed, and his collection was sold off piece by piece at auctions. The painting's fate remained a mystery until 1922, when it turned up in an inventory of artworks brought to a school building in Zubtsov, Tver Province, from the estates of Potekhino and Masalskoye and the Stepanovskoye-Volosovo estate, and handed over to the Tver Regional Museum. It's believed that the painting was brought to Russia in the 19th century by one of the princes from the Kuракиных family and was housed in their Stepanovskoye-Volosovo estate. In 1937, the painting was transferred to the Kalingin Regional Picture Gallery; it was listed in the museum's inventory under No. ж-295.

I didn't bother checking out the frescoes and icons; the room was a bit cramped. Not really my thing, but I do acknowledge that they have historical significance, and the architecture of the space is kind of interesting – the vaulted ceilings and arched windows. We headed up to the second floor instead.

The staircase leading up was super convenient, with steps that were perfectly calibrated – it was a breeze to climb.

It's the cast-iron railing and lattice work that's so impressive. The lattice design was done by A.I. Resanov; he was the architect behind the final renovation of the Imperial Palace.

Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia)Upstairs, there was another room with icons and a few frescoes.

Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia)

Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia)But then I saw some amazing Russian art from the 18th and 19th centuries – my favorite! I'm sure most people know the names of artists like Aivazovsky, Levitan, Shishkin, Savrasov, Plastov, and Serov.

The painting below is pretty massive. View of the Exchange and Admiralty from the Petropavlovskaya Fortress. Alexei Fedorovich Fedorov. I've seen this painting in books before, but it was the first time I'd seen it in person. It's like looking at a view from a viewing platform – you just want to slow down and take it all in...

Imperial Palace (Tver, Russia)And then I saw this Levitan painting, which really caught me off guard – I wasn't expecting to see it here. Plus, even though I wasn't familiar with this particular work, I immediately recognized the style and the artist. With the words 'could it be Levitan?' running through my head, I walked up to it and realized I wasn't mistaken. The way he painted the forest, with that misty transparency – it's like you can reach out and touch the air.Levitan. "Autumn. Hunter" (1880) Canvas, oil. 93.8 x 68 cm

The Imperial Coach Palace (Tver, Russia)By the way, the Levitan paintings are in a room that was once Catherine II's bedroom, but since that intimate space has never been captured on camera, it's impossible to recreate the interior - another mystery of what was here back then.

I immediately recognized and loved my favorite Aivazovsky, whom I really wanted to see here. View of Vicenza near Naples. 1855. In person, the painting looks lighter than when you photograph it. And this multifaceted subtlety of tones, which I think no photography can capture, is amazing. Aivazovsky needs to be seen in person - how he found all those colors, what mixes he made, only the sky knows... The paintings are well-preserved, which is a relief. The gallery has both large and small works.

The Imperial Coach Palace (Tver, Russia)Shishkin, a great small landscape. Shishkin is rarely seen here, but his works are enchanting and instantly recognizable. His forest is always magical.

The Imperial Coach Palace (Tver, Russia)Lots of attention has been given to portraits, which isn't surprising considering the people who used to visit the palace. There are several halls with nothing but portraits. One of the most recognizable from my school history textbooks is the portrait of Catherine II:

There's a stunning portrait of Empress Catherine the Great, painted by an unknown artist after the original by Alexander Roslin. This painting has an interesting story behind it. Roslin was of Swedish origin but spent most of his life in Paris. In the mid-1770s, he visited St. Petersburg. Due to his popularity, he received many commissions, including from members of the royal family. One of them was the portrait of Catherine the Great. The artist had high standards for likeness in portraiture, which was not typical for formal portraits at the time. His portraits feature a wider range of facial types than was characteristic of 18th-century art. Roslin also adhered to realism in depicting costumes and attributes. Catherine liked the composition of the painting, but she didn't like the portrait itself. It's worth noting that formal portraits of the Classical era aimed to depict the ideal monarch, a enlightened ruler embodying the virtues of the era. Roslin deviated from this principle, creating a powerful yet more intimate image of the queen. Fyodor Rokotov, a Russian artist, was tasked with making a copy of the work, re-painting Catherine's face. Catherine was pleased with the result and ordered that future portraits of her be based on Rokotov's work. This painting was later copied numerous times. This portrait fully met the 18th-century expectations of a formal portrait, highlighting the grandeur, power, and radiance of the queen. In Tver, there's a smaller version of the portrait, which was sent to the palace in the second half of the 1770s. It now adorns the entrance to the Grand Hall of the gallery. It's believed to have been created in the workshop of Dmitry Levitsky. This portrait was intended for the Tver Governorate, established by Catherine's decree in 1775. On the presented portrait, the Empress is depicted in full height, with her characteristic attributes: the scepter and the orb, wearing a fur-lined cloak. According to the rules of the genre, Catherine wears all the orders that belonged to her by right of succession. Her costume is made of expensive fabrics. The Empress's visage exudes wisdom, confidence, and a sense of the grandeur of the empire she leads.

Imperial Road Palace (Tver, Russia)There are even these staged figures. It's clear that everything here is a replica, but the era has been recreated.

Imperial Road Palace (Tver, Russia)Another interesting exhibit. This is a wooden carving, painted with colors. One of the most unusual exhibits in the museum. Delicate work. It's called "Peasant Wedding", 18-19th century.

Imperial Road Palace (Tver, Russia)There's a lot of tableware, and even a whole porcelain hall with exhibits.

Tsarskoe Selo Imperial Palace of Alexander I in Tver, RussiaAnd here's the famous White Hall made of marble. It has two mirrors facing each other, and if you stand in front of one, you can see a seemingly endless corridor due to the reflections. By the way, it's perfect for taking selfies with those mirrors)

Tsarskoe Selo Imperial Palace of Alexander I in Tver, RussiaGrand Hall. Located on the second floor. The walls are adorned with white artificial marble, which was considered one of the most expensive materials at the time. The massive chandeliers and candelabras, high ceilings, and intricately carved window frames made this room bright and spacious. There are fireplaces in the corner walls of the hall. The unique furniture from that era completes the interior composition – intricately patterned chairs and tables with small figurines on the legs, candelabras – like a separate work of art, where every millimeter was created by hardworking hands, and every enchanting figurine on them seems to glow along with the candles.I visited on a day when there were a lot of people, and this hall was particularly crowded. It's amazing how much air there is in this room – you feel like you want to twirl around the hall...

And this is another famous hall, where they used to host banquets. Now it's the Chancellery Hall, where you can see the coats of arms of various cities. On the tables, you can notice bronze figurines, works by Eugeniusz Lansere – incredibly meticulous work.

Tsarskoe Selo Imperial Palace of Alexander I in Tver, RussiaChancellery Hall. The name speaks for itself – the coats of arms of Moscow, St. Petersburg, and cities of the Tver Governorate are hung on the walls. The main symbol of the Romanov family is placed above the fireplace. In this room, the stove is lined with tiles, and the whole is decorated with majolica – it looks stunning and perfectly captures the spirit of the tsar's times. Additionally, there's a large, intricately carved cabinet for storing documents – it's a true work of art. The large chandelier under the ceiling and wall sconces are executed in the same style.

Tsarskoe Selo Imperial Palace of Alexander I in Tver, RussiaThe opulent ceiling with iron chandeliers, which once held candles... Tsarskoe Selo Imperial Palace of Alexander I in Tver, RussiaThis is, of course, a replica of the famous hat, but it's still awesome to see an exact reconstruction.

Tsarskoe Selo Imperial Palace of Alexander I in Tver, RussiaPersonal chambers of Catherine Pavlovna, lilac cabinet:

I spent hours wandering through the halls, taking photos and soaking up the atmosphere. But at some point, I just stopped and let myself get lost in the space. I couldn't take it all in, and I didn't even try to capture every room with my camera.

A whirlwind history of this palace

During the occupation of Kalinin, the historical interiors of the monument were lost, and only the greenhouse building survived. After the fires, all that was left of the palace were charred walls. The grand hall's ceiling had a massive hole from a grenade, and some of the granite columns were damaged. Two of the columns were completely destroyed and replaced with copies, while the others were restored – you can still see the signs of the war. But amazingly, the museum's exhibits survived: the interior, furniture, and paintings were all saved because the gallery's collections were conserved for evacuation in the basement of the Church of the Ascension, where part of the exhibit was located since the mid-30s, when the palace was occupied by the Oblast Committee. After the war, the palace was restored over several years and returned to the museum in the 1960s.This palace is a must-see in person – photos just can't capture the feeling of being inside. If you love the era of Catherine the Great, you'll adore the architecture, and each room and hall has been restored with incredible care. Many restorers have praised the quality of the work. The overall feeling I got from visiting this palace is that it's incredibly cozy. While the ground floor might feel a bit dark, the second floor is bright and airy, and you can't help but think it would be amazing to live in a place like this someday. Catherine Pavlovna was lucky to receive such a wonderful palace as a wedding gift.

As we stepped out of the palace, we found a quiet spot on the beautiful benches in the courtyard and sat for a bit, still lost in thought. It was like we were back in the halls of the palace, reliving the experience in our minds. We needed to snap out of it and remember that it's 2024, and we could use a coffee and a snack from that cute café across the street...

I'd definitely recommend visiting the Putevoy Palace. There's so much to see and explore – the museum is packed with interesting exhibits, from the architecture to the artwork, sculptures, and ceramics...

Thanks for reading, and happy travels!

Here are a few more of my reviews of Tver:

The Stepan Razin Embankment (also with some locations from Gardemariny)

The City Garden (right next to the Putevoy Palace)