I've been there - you're so exhausted that all you want to do is take a week or two off and head to a seaside resort where all you do is eat, sleep, walk around, and soak up the sun, gazing out at the water.
But, for me, getting to the beach is still a bit of a stretch, so to satisfy my need for relaxation, chill, and unwinding, I love heading to Demidkovo - a sanatorium in a pine forest on the banks of the Kama River.
Art installation 'Happiness is Here' on the embankment in Demidkovo
About the Sanatorium:
Demidkovo - Happiness is Here!
For generations, the untouched beauty of this place has been carefully preserved. The majestic pine forest offers a connection with nature. The rustling of ancient pines, the intoxicating freshness of the air, and the full Kama River all fill you with life energy and give you strength.
Our modern world may have modified the 'journey by water' trend, but it's added its own twist: now we have only 2-3 weeks a year to recharge and treat ourselves. This type of break is still considered pricey and exclusive compared to a traditional seaside holiday, but it's becoming more accessible and diverse.
The best thing about our time is the latest resort technology, which allows for a thorough examination and effective treatment in a short time, as well as a multitude of wonderful inventions for the pleasure of the body and senses. In 'Demidkovo', the conditions for health and wellness are perfect.
We went to the sanatorium on a spa package and ended up staying for a week, but you can also go on a 7-day detox program or just visit for the day without staying overnight. The entrance fee is around 400-500 rubles.
This year, we decided to try visiting for just one day with an overnight stay, and it turned out that's possible too - I thought you could only book packages with accommodation from three days. This type of package is called 'Rehabilitation' and doesn't require a spa card.
The 'Rehabilitation' package includes: accommodation, three meals a day, leisure activities, access to the pool with a sauna complex once every three days (if you're staying for three days or more), a one-hour appointment (booked in advance), a cup of herbal tea once every three days (if you're staying for three days or more), and a 20-minute consultation with a doctor, regardless of how many days you're staying. The main difference with this package is that you don't need a spa card - you can book medical and spa treatments on the spot.
Location and how to get there:
The sanatorium is located at - Perm Krai, Dobryansky Municipal District, Polaznenskoye Urban Settlement, Demidkovo Village, Kurortnaya Street, house 1/9.
Getting to the sanatorium isn't easy, especially compared to places like Ust-Kachka, which has a bus running every 20-30 minutes from Perm's main bus station.
The most convenient option is to take your own car or a taxi. Travel time from the center of Perm takes around 1-2 hours, depending on traffic. Another option is the special staff bus that runs to the sanatorium on a schedule, but it's only for employees and people who've purchased tickets. The third option, which isn't the most comfortable, is the bus that runs from the Perm bus station to Polazna, then you need to call a taxi from the Polazna bus station to get to Demidkovo, or walk for around 3-4 kilometers. We tried this option once, just for a change of pace, but it turned out to be a long and tiring walk, especially in the heat. It's not a bad option for true nature lovers and thrill-seekers, though, since part of the route takes you along the side of the road.
On the way to DemidkovoThe second challenge with getting to the sanatorium is the constant traffic jams near the Chusovskiy Bridge, which they still can't seem to finish. But the joy of finally making it to this amazing place with its incredible pine-scented air makes up for all the difficulties.Usually, there are staff members waiting at the entrance where you can buy an entrance ticket for a stroll. The walking area is open until 21 pm.
If you're staying here and have your own car, you'll need to pay for parking. The price is small, just 50 rubles per day.
After you've left your car, the first thing to do is go to the administrative building to register. It's located right next to the entrance to the territory. Registration takes just a few minutes, maybe 10 minutes tops. They'll give you a contract and receipts, which you'll need to show to the administrator at your accommodation building.
One thing that really stood out to me was the flexible check-in and check-out times. They've got four different time slots, which I think is super convenient:
you can check in from 8.00 and check out by 6.00
or check in from 12.00 and check out by 10.00
or check in from 17.00 and check out by 15.00
or check in from 21.00 and check out by 19.00
The resort has three hotel building blocks and around 25 eco-homes.
We opted for a room in block 2 with a view of the Kamu River. The rooms in these blocks are a bit newer, but they come with a higher price tag. For example, a standard double room in block 3 for two people would cost around 11,900 rubles per day, while a room in block 2 would be around 13,400 rubles per day.
Reception area of blocks 1 and 2
Relaxation area in the lobby of blocks 1 and 2Massage chair in the lobby of blocks 1 and 2It's worth noting that booking a room isn't exactly a straightforward process. Their website often says that there are no available rooms for the dates you've chosen, and you need to contact the sales department by phone. However, they never answer their phones. The only way we were able to book a room was through the Telegram messenger app, where we also arranged the details.When we checked in, they gave us electronic keys to our room and a guest card, which we needed to present at the restaurant for meals.
Our Room
We booked a standard category double room. We got one on the 3rd floor, with a view of the Kama River, just like we wanted. I would've loved to have a balcony, but there aren't many rooms with them - only three on this floor.
View of the Kama River from our room on the 3rd floor View of the Kama River from our roomThe room itself was a real winner - it was spacious, sunny, and decorated in light, warm tones.There was a huge wardrobe in the room.
WardrobeWe found slippers in the wardrobe. There weren't many hangers, but we were only staying for one night, so it wasn't a big deal.
The bed in this room was a transformer. The two beds could be joined and separated, each 90cm wide.
RoomEach half of the bed had its own mattress, and there was a small gap in the middle, but it didn't bother us. We didn't end up separating the beds, since we were comfortable with them joined. The mattress was super soft, but we slept okay. The pillow, on the other hand, was standard - I have an orthopedic one at home, so my neck was a bit uncomfortable.
BedroomAside from the bed, the room also has a relaxation area with a coffee table and two chairs.
Twin Room Standard CategoryThe chairs are comfortable. I found the low table with a glass top to be a bit tricky, as the space between it and the bed is narrow, and you have to be careful not to knock anything over. I bumped my shin against the bed frame a few times, but it's not a major issue.
The table had a water carafe, glasses, and a tea set. There's a water cooler on the floor with both hot and cold water. We were lucky, it was almost right next to our room, so we didn't have to walk far.
Water Cooler and Iron on the FloorThe iron was right there, but we didn't need it. I saw some people using it, though.
There's a desk with a chair for working in the room.
Work AreaThe desk has a small fridge, but we didn't need it and left it unplugged and the doors open.
FridgeI didn't use the TV, but it was there.
TVIn the corner of the room, behind the curtains, I found a small heater, so if it's chilly in Demidkovo in the autumn or summer, you won't freeze.
HeaterThe curtains aren't blackout, but they do create some shade.
I was glad to see mosquito nets on the windows - it's really convenient. Although the area is treated, there are still some mosquitoes, and they can bite. I'd recommend bringing some insect repellent for evening strolls.
The weather was mild, so we didn't use the air conditioning system. I couldn't assess how it works, but it's there. We just opened the windows to let in some fresh air. On the river that day, there was a strong wind and big waves, and from our room, we could hear the sound of the water and the boats and yachts passing by.
I didn't notice any noise from the neighbors, but I did wake up to the sound of people walking in the corridor and knocking on the neighboring room around 7-8 am.
The bathroom is really spacious - you could even dance in there.
The plumbing isn't old, everything is clean. We had a shower with a simple curtain.
Shower BathroomI've been really impressed with how well the shower works - the hot water is consistent, the pressure is great, and the drain works smoothly. Plus, the water disappears quickly. There's also an electric towel warmer that heats up nicely, so my towel and any small items I leave in the bathroom dry out fast.
BathroomThe Valera hair dryer is a real time-saver - it dries my hair quickly without scalding my scalp.
Besides the standard mirror, there's a small magnifying one, which is super helpful for getting ready in the morning. The lighting in the bathroom is also great, making it easy to do my makeup.
As for bathroom essentials, there's liquid soap in a dispenser and packets of 2-in-1 shampoo and body wash. The towels are also top-notch - soft, white, and clean.
Food:
The food is included in the stay and operates on a 'buffet-style' system. At Demidkovo, it runs in two shifts. The schedule for meals and the dining hall is indicated in your guest card upon check-in. We were on the first shift:
breakfast 9:00 - 9:45
lunch 13:00 - 13:45
dinner 18:00 - 18:45
Our dining hall is called 'The Banquet Hall' and it's located on the second floor of the cultural and entertainment center.
Second Floor Dining Hall at Demidkovo
Dining HallIt's a decent-sized dining hall, and I was always able to find a free table, even when it was busy.
Dining AreaThe breakfast buffet was pretty small, but they had a good variety of options. There were plenty of veggies, snacks, and drinks to choose from. I had a few different types of cereal, an omelette, pancakes, and some tasty sausages.
Cereal for Breakfast
Breakfast
Breakfast
Drinks
Cookies, pies, and bread Dinner Dinner LunchI was stuck in a crowded space with people pushing in to grab the hot food, so I didn't really get to think about what I wanted to eat - I just wanted to grab something quickly and get out of there.
But the quality of the food was a pleasant surprise. It was tasty, fresh, and not too greasy.
Breakfast - scrambled eggs with cheese, cucumbers, a cheese pancake with carrots, and a pancake with cheese and condensed milk Lunch - chicken noodle soup with parsley, potatoes, broccoli, and cod fillet Dinner - potatoes, cucumbers, and baked salmon The fruit selection was great - there were apples, oranges, plums, apricots, and watermelons. We devoured the watermelon quickly, and the staff barely had time to bring out new portions.
Fruits and vegetables The next day, we discovered that we didn't have to stay in the dining hall - we could head out to the courtyard. Eating on the courtyard under the pine trees was way more enjoyable than in the dining hall, which was noisy and stuffy. However, it can get windy on the courtyard, so it's a good idea to dress warmly, especially if it's not hot outside.
The Courtyard Facilities:
The area around Demidkovo is significantly smaller compared to Ust-Kachka and is surprisingly well-maintained. It's essentially a pine forest, which makes the air here incredibly fresh and piney. You can also catch whiffs of sweet, honey-like scents from the linden trees growing in some spots.
There are walking paths everywhere, with various flowers planted along the way. Some of the trees and lamp posts are even decorated with fairy lights.
Demidkovo TerritoryDemidkovo TerritoryAs you stroll along the paths, you'll come across various sculptures inspired by the fairy tales of Bazhov.
Sculptures in Demidkovo inspired by Bazhov's fairy talesThe eco-homes scattered throughout the pine forest are a lovely touch. Some of them are simple and resemble train carriages, while others look like they belong in a fairytale.
Eco-homes in Demidkovo
Demidkovo Territory Demidkovo Territory
Demidkovo Territory Cabins in DemidkovoI loved the small waterfall we stumbled upon near the towers. It looks really beautiful.
WaterfallWalking around the territory, you can access the river and a pier with stunning views.
Access to the Pier
Pier
KamaI've found this spot to be an absolute gem for walks and strolls along the riverbank.
Riverbank, photo 2023
Riverbank in DemidkovoFlowers on the riverbank in 2022Beach:
The beach is probably my favorite spot in Demidkovo. I love heading here on hot days - the sandy beach is spotless, and the sun loungers are free, as long as you can find an empty one, which isn't usually a problem.
There are cabins for changing and showers nearby, plus a play area with swings and slides for the kids.
There's a public toilet nearby, which is free to use, although it's not in the best condition. You can also find toilets on the ground floor of buildings 1 and 2, and the cafeteria. They're not the most pleasant places, but they're always crowded.
This year, the weather didn't cooperate, so the beach was pretty deserted on Sundays. Even when the sun was out, the strong river winds kept people away.
Beach
Beach I spent some time exploring the resort's beach area, and I was impressed by the private beach zone with bungalows and comfy sun loungers. There's also a nearby yacht club.
The evening before last, the weather was a bit warmer, and I saw only a handful of people swimming. The brave ones, I guess!
Beach in Demidkovo
Beach Demidkovo photo 2023 Looking back, I remember that in previous years, the beach had a cafe called 'Kama-River' that was super popular on weekends when the weather was nice.
Territory of the paid beach and cafe, photo 2022
Beach in summer 2022
River Cafe in 2022We really loved it the first time around, enjoying great food, drinks, and views while sitting on the riverbank. But this year, we were looking forward to a great time, only to find out that the cafe on the riverbank wasn't there, unfortunately. I hope they bring it back next year.
For this year, we ended up grabbing a bite at the Barin bar, which is located on the first floor of the KR Center. There's also a small cafe in the second building, but it only serves drinks and pastries. The prices are pretty average, and I've included our receipts below. The food was pretty good, by the way - the khinkali weren't too spicy or greasy, and the syrniki were delicious, served with blueberry jam and honey.
Our receipt from Barin bar Our receipt from Barin barThe bar has an outdoor area, too, where you can sit surrounded by pine trees - it's a nice touch.
On weekends during peak weather, Demidkovo gets pretty crowded, and you can expect long lines for food, the bathroom, and even a spot on the beach. So, I'd recommend bringing some snacks and drinks to avoid waiting for food.
As for activities, you can play volleyball, rent a catamaran, or try your hand at paddleboarding. We didn't end up using any of these services, though.
Beach
Things to Do:
So, what's there to do on a rainy day in the sanatorium? The entertainment options are pretty cool, but they're all paid activities and you need to book in advance. The main hall has a pool table, bowling, a cinema, and live concerts.
Bowling in the Main Hall Pool Table in the Main Hall Things to Do in Demidkovo Things to Do in Demidkovo You can rent a bike, try your hand at the shooting range, or visit the rope park. Each week, they put together a program of events, and most of them are free – like morning yoga, games for kids. We were here on a Saturday evening, and there was a concert, but we didn't go – we did, however, go to the disco. On Sunday morning, I was planning to go to a stretching