We spent our July vacation in Cyprus. The sun was scorching, the heat was unbearable, and the vegetation was starting to wilt in some areas. We chose Limassol because we didn't want the hassle of a big city, but we also didn't want to be stuck in some remote village.
Limassol is a decent-sized resort town with sandy beaches and nearby attractions. We stayed in a small 3-star hotel right next to the beach. The hotel was nothing special, just like any other hotel in the rest of Europe, but what really surprised me was that they changed the towels every two days, not every day.
The sand on the beaches in Limassol is gray. Our guide told us that it has amazing healing properties and can cure almost any illness. After hearing that, I couldn't resist the chance to improve my health. Just don't lie down in the shade on the beach, or you might end up making your health worse.
The water in the sea in July isn't cold, of course, but it's still a bit chilly in the morning. There are sunbeds with umbrellas available on the beach for a fixed price. However, the price may vary depending on the beach.
I've spent a lot of time in Larnaca, but Larnaca's got nothing on Limassol when it comes to restaurants and cafes. You'll find loads of family-run places, where the mum's in the kitchen, the son's working as a waiter, and the dad's running the show. We ended up eating at one of these places almost every night, and the service was consistently top-notch - especially when compared to what you'd get back home in Russia. Don't get me wrong, there are places in Russia where the customer service is on par with what you'd find in Europe, but the contrast is still pretty striking. I mean, where else would they offer to swap out a dish if you didn't like it - and I'm not talking about some fancy restaurant, but a small, family-run place. Or where they'd bring you free drinks without you even asking, just because they'd kept you waiting for 10-15 minutes for the main course. And they'd do it with a genuine apology, too. So, what's there to do in Limassol? In the mornings, you've got the sea, and in the evenings, you can take a stroll along the waterfront. There's a special path that runs along the coast, and it's perfect for taking in the sea breeze.
We were surrounded by three five-star hotels, and this place was literally right up against their territory. At night, when the lights came on, it was especially beautiful.
If you're closer to the center, you can walk along the wide waterfront and check out all the tourists. You can even walk down to the port. There are tons of cafes and restaurants along the dock. You can stroll through the historic part of town or head over to the shopping center. And of course, you have to check out the bakery - they've got all sorts of pastries, sweets, and even ice cream by the scoop.
To be honest, two weeks wasn't nearly enough time, so let's move on to the excursion part. I usually buy my tickets on the street, but this time I had to go with a tour operator. There was only one street agent near our hotel, and the prices were the same as the tour operator's, but the guy wasn't very impressive. So, I ended up going with Pegas for the first time. Our first stop (with swimming!) was the Bay of Aphrodite.
The beach is surrounded by pebbles and shells, and I'm pretty much alone except for a small tourist group. The cove is tiny, and the stop itself involves a 15-20 minute swim. As a fun activity, you need to swim out to the Aphrodite's Rock and swim around it (I'm not sure which side to take). The reward? Eternal youth, according to the legend – not that it's going to last forever, of course. I managed to do it, although there are some waves, but it's definitely doable. I'll check the results in, say, 20 years or so. Next up is the bus ride to the Kikkos Monastery with a few stops along the way (like checking out the oldest olive tree, for instance). One of the oldest olive trees The Kikkos Monastery itself looks pretty unassuming from the outside, but the interior is a different story altogether. Kikkos Monastery One of the perks of visiting this monastery is that you can use the local 'robes' for free, which allows you to enter the monastery without your tourist gear. It's a great way to get a closer look at the holy site. This place is super popular among Orthodox Christians because it's home to one of the three miraculous icons of the Virgin Mary. You can even touch it or use it to bless something. However, the candles you buy and light 'for health' have to be taken with you and lit in another monastery or church. There was a pretty serious fire here (not the first one), so they don't leave lit candles behind.
Since the island is divided by a border between Greece and Turkey, one of the perks of this tour is getting to visit the eastern Turkish side. Just make sure to bring your passport, which the tour guide will usually collect. You can be sure they'll wait for you, unlike some tour guides who threaten to leave without latecomers. The main difference between the Turkish and Greek sides, aside from the flags, is the currency (euro and lira), language, prices, and the way hotel staff speak. But in all honesty, the difference isn't that dramatic, given that it's the same island.
I was struck by the stark contrast between the church and monastery in one area, and the mosque in another. It's almost as if you're in two different worlds. I have to say, the Turkish part of the area doesn't really feel like Turkey at all. It's much more deserted and quiet.
One of the local highlights is the Bellapais Abbey.
Bellapais Abbey Bellapais Abbey Not everything survived, but there's still something to see. I mean, the phrase 'something survived' could be applied to almost all Cyprus attractions (excluding active monasteries, of course). But this abbey is definitely worth seeing and appreciating the beauty, which can't be said about some other places where you can only get an idea of what it was like from pictures and the enthusiastic stories of guides.
I have to say more about our guide (no advertising, just genuine emotions). A pleasant woman who's in love with her country and tells its story with such enthusiasm that you're expecting some kind of magic from the tour. Unfortunately, not sharing the same affection for Cyprus (since it's not my home country, and we're here for the first time), you're faced with the harsh reality that's far from the guide's romantic descriptions. One time, it was really frustrating when we were walking through the heat to see an ancient ship in some museum, only to find a 'surfboard' instead (where the ship's hull was all that remained). And every time, it was promised that this view would be breathtaking, and we'd find ourselves, for example, in Venice... Nope, Cyprus doesn't have a place that would transport you even remotely to Venice. And that's okay, but why promise it?)I highly recommend visiting one spot on the island if you're looking to explore. I'm talking about the ruins of St. Hilarion Castle.
I have to say, getting to these viewpoints requires some effort - climbing up mountains in the heat isn't exactly my favorite pastime. But, on the one hand, there are stairs, and, on the other, the views are totally worth it. And that's exactly where the magic happens - you can get a sense of the scale and grandeur of the old structure. How high you want to climb (there are several levels) is up to you, depending on your energy and willingness. Down below, there's a small café where you can refuel. And, to be honest, Cyprus has got all the usual suspects - beaches, sea, good food, and attractions... but it's not exactly standing out from the crowd. It's got its own thing, I suppose, but it's not really making a strong case for itself. Everything is just... fine, I guess. It's all just sort of... there.
I have to admit, my trip to this destination was pretty uneventful. It's not bad, but it's not exactly memorable either. Maybe it's perfect for a first-time traveler or someone who's never been to Italy, Rome, or Prague. But if you've already experienced the real Italian cuisine, seen the historical landmarks in Rome, or enjoyed the architecture of Prague, or even just dipped your toes in the warm Spanish waters, you might find this place a bit bland, even if it's pleasant. I'd even say Greece has more character.
Would I regret this trip? No way. Would I go back? Doubt it. Why bother, though? There are so many more amazing places to explore!
If you're interested in reading more or checking out our other adventures, join the journey:
Romantic Venice
Sri Lanka - an island of surprises
Amazing Beijing
Budget-friendly Torrevieja
Unforgettable Vietnam
La Manga - a secluded corner of Spain
Welcoming Romania
Underrated Florence