We spent a summer vacation at our friends' place in Irkutsk, and we joined their hike along the Big Baikal Trail. The 22km route offered stunning views of Lake Baikal from above and from the shore – an experience that's etched in our memories forever! Lake Baikal is truly a wonder of the world!
We started from the Liustyanka village, about an hour's drive from Irkutsk city center. You can also take a bus from the Irkutsk bus station, which takes around 1.5 hours. In the village, you can:
take a stroll along the Baikal shoreline – take a break from the roadgrab a bite to eat (most cafes open at 10 am), and you can also find omul and other local fish at the marketbuy souvenirs, magnets, or snacks
However, it's better to save the market visit for the return journey. We arrived back around 7:30 pm and by 8 pm, most of the market stalls had closed. But we managed to grab some omul for our evening gathering by the Baikal shoreline.
Okay, we caught our breath, and by 11 am, we were off on our adventure! It takes about 20-30 minutes to hike up from the market, and that's where you'll find the entrance to the Big Baikal Trail. There, you'll be greeted by the BBT staff, who'll scan the QR code on your permission slip.
You'll need to get your permission online on the website in advance, and pay 200 rubles for entry. Once you've got your code, you're good to go! We managed to get ours sorted in three days, but I think you can do it on the spot. The locals told us that sometimes the trail gets closed for a day or two if the weather conditions aren't safe for tourists.
I've gotta say, there are a ton of routes to choose from! We picked the most scenic one – Listvyanka to Big Khaty
Listvyanka – Big Khaty
This 24km route is mostly along the shores of Lake Baikal and is considered a medium-difficulty hike. The views of the lake and the opposite shore are just breathtaking.
You can find more details about each route on the official BBT website and choose one that suits your taste and fitness level!
By the way, our GPS tracker showed around 22km, although the official route is 24km. I guess it depends on how you take the route. There are a few spots where you can cut off, but we wanted to make the most of our hike and burn some calories, so the extra kilometers were a bonus!
Spoiler: we arrived in 7 hours and 20 minutes. Some of the guys who'd already done the route got back in 8 hours, but they'd taken a catamaran to Big Cats and then walked back in the opposite direction towards Listvyanka. And they'd had a more complicated second part of the route, when they were already running low on energy. So they decided to take the catamaran back from Listvyanka instead.
As for the catamaran – while our group was having a snack and exploring the market, some of the guys had agreed to take the catamaran back at 7 pm. So we had to get to Big Cats by that time. Because walking back for 7 hours just wasn't going to be fun, and the daylight isn't endless... But some people do go on hikes with overnight camping and tents!
I was glad I could book the boat in advance, as it made things a lot easier. We just walked along the shore of Lake Baikal, asked the price for our group, and they told us when they could pick us up. The return trip took just 20 minutes, which was a relief after the 7-hour hike. 20 minutes vs 7 hours 20 minutes – that's a no-brainer!
Of course, you can't see the full beauty of the lake from the boat, but it's still worth it. The water is a lovely shade of blue, and the local flora is pretty cool too. We paid 1000 rubles per person for the boat, which was a good deal considering the average price was 1500. Our boat was a bright red color, and we were joined by 6 other tourists who were complete strangers to us.
So, the journey begins. You walk along the forest path, which is a gentle uphill climb. Even if you're not super athletic, the path is pretty easy to navigate. We had two guys in our group who struggled a bit at first, but they soon got into the swing of things and picked up the pace. For most of the hike, the trees provide plenty of shade, which is a blessing.
I was blown away by the refreshing cold mountain streams that flowed everywhere. It was like a cool breeze on a hot day, even when the temperature was over +30°C. My backpack was light, with just a snack and a 0.5L water bottle. Don't bother bringing more water – you'll be topping up from the streams all the time! The water was crystal clear and incredibly refreshing, like it was straight from the freezer. The trail was around 5-6 kilometers long.
The second part of the trail was a real treat – a serpentine path that wound its way up and down, but with trees on either side. I was a bit worried it would be tough, but it was actually a breeze. The whole section took around an hour to complete, and it was a great feeling to know I'd made it through.
It's amazing how all the hikers you meet on the trail will always greet each other and offer words of encouragement. Someone will wish you a smooth journey, while others will try to boost your morale by telling you how far you've already come. It's like an unspoken code among hikers:
Then, the trail takes you through a lush meadow with grass up to your waist, and a slight incline. And finally, you're rewarded with an incredible view of Lake Baikal from above! It looks like an endless sea stretching out before you! And that's just the motivation you need to keep going. Plus, just a bit further, about 15 minutes, and we'll be right on the shores of Lake Baikal!
Ah, our first break! Sandwiches, tea from the thermos, the sound of Lake Baikal's waves, seagulls crying... pure bliss! You feel like the luckiest person alive!
Everyone takes their trash back with them in their backpacks! It's really great to see no litter or cigarette butts on the shore. And who wouldn't love and protect such pristine beauty?
We rested for 20-30 minutes (we didn't have time to sit around, we had to catch the boat!) and off we went! This is where the most beautiful part of the road begins. The views of Baikal on our right-hand side are simply stunning! On our left, we saw thistles, wildflowers, grasshoppers, bellflowers... and even some wild mushrooms!
We walked for about an hour, I guess. The guys said we might've been able to walk along the Baikal shoreline, but the water was high and not all of the shoreline was accessible. So, I'm not sure if that's an option or if we had to take the higher route. But even if we could've walked along the shoreline, we wouldn't have seen Baikal from a bird's-eye view! And that's what makes BBT so special!
I'll be honest, the only part that really got my heart racing was this super narrow path carved into the side of a cliff about 2 meters up and 2 meters down – it was like a sharp triangle. My legs were shaking and my palms were sweating, but I managed to push through and make it to the other side.
But after that, it was smooth sailing – literally! The path was almost straight, with just a slight incline. It was a welcome relief after that intense section.
The scenery just gets more and more breathtaking!
The 22km hike is totally worth it for the scenery alone!
And there they are – the Big Cats! And we've got 40 minutes to chill on the shore, take in the view, have a cup of tea, and grab a snack.
The Big Cats are a tiny settlement on the shores of Lake Baikal:
We get picked up by a boat in Lake Baikal, and we see our entire route from the water's perspective! It's crazy to think about how far we've come.
And then we can chill on the shore of Lake Baikal from the Liustre side, grab some omul from the local market, or head to a cafe to try some local dishes like puzhi – it's like a mantou, but with a hole in the top and meat juice inside.
And after that, we headed back home, tired but happy, with memories that will last a lifetime.