We decided to take a break from our daily routine and spend a weekend in Karelia with my girlfriend. Living in St. Petersburg, we'd never made it to this beautiful region before, and we didn't want to spend too much money on the trip.
We planned a rough route, decided to drive, and tried to save money throughout the trip.
We left St. Petersburg at 8 am.
The trip started with filling up the gas tank (it was almost empty):
A full tank was enough to get there, go there, and get back. We ended up saving money, since a bus ride and all that for two would've been way more expensive.
The drive was around 316 km one way, or almost 4 hours (as my navigator so kindly lied to me).
First things first, we decided to visit Ruskeala, Mramorny Canyon.
On the way, we enjoyed the scenery of the Leningrad region and the Republic of Karelia.
To see how ordinary hills on the road started changing into stone hills (as we approached the Republic of Karelia) just blew my mind. Unfortunately, I didn't get to take a photo of it while driving.
After a long drive, we got pretty hungry and decided to stop and eat at Dom Berg.
The menu was pretty limited. I decided to try the elk pelmeni. They brought out a plate with a meager handful of pelmeni, about 8-9 pieces, for that price:
The pelmeni were tasteless, very bland. The meat wasn't even salted.
We arrived at Mramorny Canyon at 2 pm (in total: from St. Petersburg to the canyon 6 hours with a stop to grab a bite).
There's a huge parking area near the canyon, and it's surprisingly free.
By the time we arrived, several buses with tourists had already arrived. There was a pretty long line at the ticket booth.
To avoid waiting in line, we bought our tickets online (very convenient).
The entrance fee was 550 rubles.
The first thing you see when you enter the canyon is a little shop with drinks and food, and a souvenir store. It was sweltering, so I grabbed the cheapest thing on the menu: an ice cream in a waffle cone (the usual stuff):
But what really bugged me was the trail of tourists (trash in the water):
But the forest itself was a real stunner:
And the marble quarry was just as breathtaking:
You can find something to entertain yourself for any budget – take a boat ride through the quarry or jump off the cliff on a tarzan swing (2500 rubles).
And the Italian quarry is just as stunning, with its marble walls and the marks of the drillers' work:
I was surprised by the number of souvenir shops in the Marble Canyon area. Buying a souvenir is definitely not cheap. Magnets (small ones) cost around 400-450 rubles, for example.
I also managed to find a really interesting item among the souvenirs:
There's a cafe called Ruskolka on the territory of the canyon. It's super crowded, and finding a free table was not easy. The prices there are not cheap either. A portion of grechka and a chicken schnitzel cost me a pretty penny:
Marble Canyon is definitely beautiful, but I don't think it's worth the 6-hour drive each way.
After a long drive and a hike through the canyon, we were pretty exhausted and decided not to visit anything else that day. We decided to take a little stroll around the area and get some rest.
For the night, we stayed in a local guest house room. The night cost us 2500 rubles.
Unfortunately, we didn't wake up early, and we didn't have much time for 'traveling' (considering the return trip).
We decided to head to the Polyana Loparey.
First, the bad stuff: the road to this place is made of large rocks. You have to drive at 20 km/h, which is not very comfortable, especially when you're following another car. The dust is a problem, and your car will get dirty. To make things worse, on the way back, some inconsiderate person drove by at 80 km/h, kicked up a lot of dust, and damaged my car with flying rocks.
Now, the good stuff: I really loved this place! When I got here, I thought, 'Well, it was worth the trip!'
The entrance ticket costs (elk, deer, ancient people's museum):
If you buy the ticket for 950, you'll get tea by the fire and a dish in the local cafe. But it's 24 degrees outside, and the sun is blazing, so the tea by the fire was definitely unnecessary.
The museum area is quite atmospheric, but I'd have trouble calling the wooden figures a museum.
After the museum, we headed out to see the elk. They didn't look like the happiest elk in the world to me, and I even thought they looked a bit scrawny for elk:
Next up was an enclosure with elk of different ages, and you could feed them (though they didn't seem too interested, maybe they were already full). The condition of the elk varied too.
Then we headed to the waterfall valley. Wow, it's just stunning!
You really need to wear comfortable shoes, or you'll struggle to make it.
The paths are mostly wooden planks, and there are tons of steep, high stairs.
But there are benches along the way, so you can sit down, take a break, and enjoy the beauty of nature and the waterfalls.
It's actually pretty quiet and peaceful compared to the Marble Canyon.
The waterfall itself isn't Niagara, but it's still really mesmerizing. I sat there for 30 minutes, just taking it all in.
I have to say, I was really charmed by the old water mill we stumbled upon. Too bad it was closed for repairs, though.
Honestly, I didn't want to leave. The place was so peaceful and beautiful. A place I'd love to go back to.
On our way back, we stopped by cafe «Uyut» in Sartovale.
It's got a pretty retro vibe going on, like stepping back into the 90s. But, surprisingly, I had a really tasty lamb shashlik for just 550 rubles. And the staff was super friendly.
Total: for 1.5 days of traveling, we spent almost 15,000 rubles for two people, considering we didn't go out of our way to splurge.
Prices for everything are pretty steep, except for those chain stores.
To be honest, we were pretty exhausted after those weekends, and we needed another one.
Now, let me share the downsides of taking a non-touristy route in the Republic of Karelia.
Things took a dark turn when we checked out a regular residential area (or so I thought). It was a whole different story:
• There's a lot of young people who look like they've been drinking all day. It's not exactly safe to walk around at night.
• There's basically no infrastructure at all.
• The housing is in a terrible state.
• I didn't see a single decent playground for kids.
• It seems like most families with kids have already moved out of the area.
To be honest, I don't think I'll ever go back, despite its beauty. I'd recommend visiting once, just for the experience, but with a fat wallet.